Among the stories circulated in the Tuesday market was one to the effect that a lion had come down from the Atlas, and after taking toll of the cattle belonging to the douars on its road, had been shot at the western end of the forest.  This tale was told with so much circumstance that it seemed worth inquiry, and I found in Mogador that a great beast had indeed come from the hills and wrought considerable harm; but it was a leopard, not a lion.  It may be doubted whether lions are to be found anywhere north of the Atlas to-day, though they were common enough in times past, and one is said to have been shot close to Tangier in the middle of last century.  If they still exist it is in the farthest Atlas range, in the country of the Beni M’gild, a district that cannot be approached from the west at all, and in far lands beyond, that have been placed under observation lately by the advance-columns of the French Algerian army, which does not suffer from scruples where its neighbour’s landmarks are concerned.  Most of the old writers gave the title of lion or tiger to leopards, panthers, and lemurs; indeed, the error flourishes to-day.

[Illustration:  A COUNTRYMAN]

On the road once again, I found myself wondering at the way in which British sportsmen have neglected the Argan Forest.  If they had to reach it as we did, after long days and nights in a country that affords little attraction for sportsmen, it would be no matter for wonder that they stay away.  But the outskirts of the forest can be reached from Mogador at the expense of a five-mile ride across the miniature Sahara that cuts off Sidi M’godol’s city from the fertile lands, and Mogador has a weekly service of steamers coming direct from London by way of the other Moorish ports.  No part of the forest is preserved, gun licenses are unknown, and the woods teem with game.  Stories about the ouadad or moufflon may be disregarded, for this animal is only found in the passes of the Atlas Mountains, miles beyond the forest’s boundaries.  But, on the other hand, the wild boar is plentiful, while lynx, porcupine, hyaena, jackal, and hare are by no means rare.  Sand-grouse and partridge thrive in large quantities.  There are parts of the forest that recall the Highlands of Scotland, though the vegetation is richer than any that Scotland can show, and in these places, unknown save to a very few, the streams are full of trout, and the otter may be hunted along the banks.  The small quantity and poor quality of native guns may be held to account for the continual presence of birds and beasts in a part of the world that may not fairly be deemed remote, and where, save in times of stress, a sportsman who will treat the natives with courtesy and consideration may be sure of a hearty welcome and all the assistance he deserves.  Withal, no man who has once enjoyed a few days in the Argan Forest can sincerely regret Europe’s neglect of it:  human nature is not unselfish enough for that.