and there were eggs in plenty, fetching from twopence
to threepence the dozen, a high price for Morocco,
and brought about by the export trade that has developed
so rapidly in the last few years. For the most
part the traders seemed to be Berbers or of evident
Berber extraction, being darker and smaller than the
Arabs, and in some cases wearing the dark woollen
outer garment, with its distinctive orange-coloured
mark on the back. Women and little children took
no small part in the market, but were perhaps most
concerned with the sale of the chickens that they
brought from their homes, tied by the legs in bundles
without regard to the suffering entailed. The
women did rather more than a fair share of porters’
work too. Very few camels were to be seen, but
I noticed one group of half a dozen being carefully
fed on a cloth, because, like all their supercilious
breed, they were too dainty to eat from the ground.
They gurgled quite angrily over the question of precedence.
A little way from the tents in which hardware was
exposed for sale, bread was being baked in covered
pans over a charcoal fire fanned by bellows, while
at the bottom of the hill a butcher had put up the
rough tripod of wooden poles, from which meat is suspended.
The slaughter of sheep was proceeding briskly.
A very old Moor was the official slaughter-man, and
he sat in the shade of a wall, a bloody knife in hand,
and conversed gravely with villagers of his own age.
When the butcher’s assistants had brought up
three or four fresh sheep and stretched them on the
ground, the old man would rise to his feet with considerable
effort, cut the throats that were waiting for him
very cleanly and expeditiously, and return to his
place in the shade, while another assistant spread
clean earth over the reeking ground. Some of
the sheep after being dressed were barbecued.
I saw many women and girls bent under the weight of
baskets of charcoal, or firewood, or loads of hay,
and some late arrivals coming in heavily burdened
in this fashion were accompanied by their husband,
who rode at ease on a donkey and abused them roundly
because they did not go quickly enough. Mules
and donkeys, with fore and hind leg hobbled, were left
in one corner of the market-place, to make up in rest
what they lacked in food. Needless to say that
the marketing was very brisk, but I noted with some
interest that very little money changed hands.
Barter was more common than sale, partly because the
Government had degraded its own currency until the
natives were fighting shy of it, and partly because
the owners of the sheep and goats were a company of
true Bedouins from the extreme South. These Bedouins
were the most interesting visitors to the Tuesday
market, and I was delighted when one of them recognised
Salam as a friend. The two had met in the days
when an adventurous Scot set up in business at Cape
Juby in the extreme South, where I believe his Majesty
Lebaudy the First is now king.