of pleasant tranquillity and of a well-being that was a legacy from the more spacious days of centuries gone by.  The nature of the place was that of mellow old wine, very gracious, rich with associations that brought a glow to the palate of memory, but for all that something of which one wanted only little at a time.  A glimpse of Udine as she had been for centuries was delightful, to dwell there would seem like being buried alive.

[Sidenote:  Bustle and congestion when Udine becomes Army Headquarters.]

To this forgotten township of the old Venetian province had come suddenly in the spring of 1913 all the bustle and congestion of the headquarters of the whole Italian Army.  For the next two and a half years you could hardly find a room in Udine to sleep in; the people of the place opened large modern restaurants and cafes for the officers and soldiers who crowded its streets; big shops filled the gloom of the old arcades with an incongruous expanse of plate-glass windows; the good burgesses of Udine made money and waxed fat.

[Sidenote:  A tactical dead-lock on the western front.]

It seemed, indeed, as if the steady shower of war prosperity that had fallen upon them for two years might last until that indefinite, but to most minds far-off, day when peace should come.  For it was the general opinion that in the West, at least, the war had reached a condition of tactical dead-lock.  Trench warfare had petrified movement, except in laborious shifting of a few hundred yards at a time, hardly perceptible on a small-scale map.  The day of sweeping advances, of sudden retirements, was over.  At a reasonable distance behind that unbudging wall of trenches you were as secure from personal displacement by the war as if you were at the other end of Italy; indeed, no earlier than the beginning of this month of October some people had arrived with their families at Udine from other parts of the country to carry on trades connected with the life of the army.

[Sidenote:  General Cadorna praises the British batteries.]

I myself set foot in Udine for the first time on October 20.  I was going back to the Macedonian front, where for two years I had been the official correspondent of the British Army, and I had asked the War Office to authorize me to visit on the way the British batteries which since April had been cooperating with the Italian Army on the Isonzo.  General Cadorna had given them high praise in a message to the British Government after the fighting in which they had taken part in May, and I thought it would be interesting to see British and Italian troops side by side in the field for the first time.

[Sidenote:  Visits to the Italian front yield important information.]