and though he had no company in his house, put us
into much worse apartments than those we had been
in before. I ordered something for supper, and
left it to him, as he had given us a very good one
before; but he was not only determined to punish us
in lodging, but in eating also, and sent only four
little mutton cutlets, so small, that they were not
sufficient for one, instead of four persons; we pretended,
however, not to perceive his insolence, that he might
not enjoy our punishment; and the next day, as I was
desirous of looking about me a little, we removed to
another posada, where, about noon, a Canon
of great ecclesiastical preferment arrived, with a
coach, six mules, and a large retinue, to dinner:
the Canon had no more the marks of a gentleman than
a muleteer; and he had with him two or three persons,
of no better appearance. While his dinner, a
kind of olla, was preparing, I went into the
kitchen, where the smell of the rancid oil with which
it was dressed, would have dined two or three men
of moderate or tender stomachs; nor had he any other
dish. There was behind his coach a great quantity
of bedding, bed-steads, &c. so you will perceive he
travelled comme il faut. His livery servants
were numerous, and had on very short livery coats,
with large sleeves, and still shorter waists.
After he had eat a dinner, enough to poison a pack
of hounds, he sat off in great pomp for Barcelona,
a city I passed the next day with infinite pleasure,
without entering its inhospitable gates; which I could
not have done, had not Mons. Anglois saved
me that mortification by getting my passa porte
refreshed. I confess, Sir, that while I passed
under the fortifications of that city, which the high
road made necessary, I felt, I knew not why, a terror
about me, that my frame is in general a stranger to;
and rather risqued two hours’ night travelling,
bad and dangerous as the roads were, than sleep within
four leagues of it; so that it was ten o’clock
before we got to Martereau, a little city by
the sea side, where we had lodged on our way to Barcelona.
The next day, we proceeded on the same delightful
sea coast we had before passed, and through the same
rich villages, on our way to Girone, Figuiere,
&c. and avoided that horrid posada where the
Frenchman died, by lying at a worse house, but better
people: but having bought a brace of partridges,
and some red fish on the road, we fared sumptuously,
except in beds, which were straw mattrasses, very hard,
and the room full of wet Indian corn; but we were
no sooner out of our posada, than the climate
and the beautiful country made ample amends for the
town and posada grievances.