shall leave the capital of this kingdom many leagues
on my right hand, and see some considerable towns,
and taste now and then of the most delicious wines,
on the spots which produce them; beside this, I have
a great desire to see the remains of a Roman subterranean
town, lately discovered in
Champaigne, which
perhaps may gratify my curiosity in some degree, and
thereby lessen that desire I have: long had of
visiting
Herculaneum, an
under-ground
town you know, I always said I would visit, if a certain
person happened to be put
under-ground before
me; but the CAUSE, and the event, in all human affairs,
are not to be fathomed by men; for though the event
happened, the
cause frustrated my design; and
I must cross the
Pyranean not the
Alpian
hills. But lest I forget it, let me tell you,
that as my travelling must be upon the frugal plan,
I have sold my four-wheel post-chaise, to
Mons.
Dessein, for twenty-two guineas, and bought a French
cabriolet, for ten, and likewise a very handsome
English coach-horse, (a little touched in the wind
indeed) for seven. This equipage I have fitted
up with every convenience I can contrive, to carry
me, my wife, two daughters, and all my
other
baggage; you will conclude therefore,
light
as the latter may be, we are
bien charge; but
as we move slowly, not above seven leagues a day,
I shall have the more leisure to look about me, and
to consider what sort of remarks may prove most worthy
of communicating from time to time to you. I
shall be glad to leave this town, though it is in
one respect, something like your’s,[B] everyday
producing many
strange faces, and some very
agreeable acquaintance. The arrival of the packet-boats
from Dover constitutes the principal amusement of this
town.
[B] BATH.
The greater part of the English transports
who come over, do not proceed much further than to
see the tobacco plantations near St. Omer’s;
nor is their return home less entertaining than their
arrival, as many of them are people of such quick
parts, that they acquire, in a week’s tour
to Dunkirk, Bologne, and St. Omer’s,
the language, dress and manners of the country.
You must not, however, expect to hear again from me,
till I am further a-field. But lest I forget
to mention it in a future letter, let me refresh your
memory, as to your conduct at Dover, at Sea, and at
Calais. In the first of these three disagreeable
places, (and the first is the worst) you will soon
be applied to by one of the Captains of the packets,
or bye-boats, and if you hire the boat to yourself,
he will demand five guineas; if you treat with another,
it is all one, because they are all, except one, partners
and equally interested; and therefore will abate nothing.
Captain Watson is the only one who swims upon his
own bottom; and as he is a good seaman, and has
a clean, convenient, nay an elegant vessel, I would