Turning down Via di Pinti to the left, and then to the right along Via Alfani, we pass another desecrated monastery in S. Maria degli Angioli, once a famous house of the monks of Camaldoli.  This monastery has suffered many violations, and is scarcely worth a visit, perhaps, unless it be to see the fresco of Andrea del Castagno in the cloister, and to remind ourselves that here, in the fifteenth century, Don Ambrogio Traversari used to lecture in the humanities, a cynical remembrance enough to-day.

If we take the second street to the right, Via de’ Servi, we shall come at once into the beautiful Piazza della Santissima Annunziata.  Before us is the desecrated convent of the Servites, now turned into a school, and the Church of SS.  Annunziata itself, now the most fashionable church in Florence.  On the left and right are the beautiful arcades of Brunellesco, decorated by the della Robbia; the building on the left is now used for private houses, that on the right is the Ospedale degli Innocenti.  The equestrian statue was made by Giovanni da Bologna, and represents Ferdinando I.

The Order of Servites, whose church and convent are before us, was originally founded by seven Florentines of the Laudesi, that Compagnia di S. Michele in Orto which built Madonna a shrine by the art of Orcagna in Or S. Michele, as we have seen.  “I Servi di Maria” they were called, and, determined to quit a worldly life, they retired to a little house where now S. Croce stands; and later, finding that too near the city, went over the hills of Fiesole beyond Pratolino, founding a hermitage on Monte Senario.  And I, who have heard their bells from afar at sunset, why should I be sorry that they are no longer in the city.  Well, on Monte Senario, be sure, they lived hardly enough on the charity of Florence, so that at last they built a little rest-house just without the city, where SS.  Annunziata stands to-day.  But in those days Florence was full of splendour and life; it had no fear of the Orders, and even loved them, giving alms.  Presently the Servi di Maria were able to build not a rest-house only, but a church and a convent, and then they who served Madonna were not forgotten by her, for did she not give them miraculously a picture of her Annunciation, so beautiful and full of grace that all the city flocked to see it?  Thus it used to be.  To-day, as I have said, SS.  Annunziata is the fashionable church of Florence.  The ladies go in to hear Mass; the gentlemen lounge in the cloister and await them.  It is not quite our way in England, but then the sun is not so kind to us.  It is true that on any spring morning you may see the cloister filled with laughing lilies to be laid at Madonna’s feet; but who knows if she be not fled away with her Servi to Monte Senario?  Certainly those bells were passing glad and very sweet, and they were ringing, too, the Angelus.

However that may be, a committee, we are told, of which Queen Margherita is patron here, “renders a programme of sacred music, chiefly Masses from the ancient masters, admirably executed.”  It is comforting to our English notions to know that “The subscribers have the right to a private seat in the choir, and the best society of Florence is to be met there.”