out of town yet; we have therefore had leisure to
establish our own household for the winter, and have
done so as commodiously as if our habitation was fixed
here for life. This I am delighted with, as one
may chance to gain that insight into every day behaviour,
and common occurrences, which can alone be called
knowing something of a country: counting churches,
pictures, palaces, may be done by those who run from
town to town, with no impression made but on their
bones. I ought to learn that which before us
lies in daily life, if proper use were made of my
demi-naturalization; yet impediments to knowledge spring
up round the very tree itself—for surely
if there was much wrong, I would not tell it of those
who seem inclined to find all right in me; nor can
I think that a fame for minute observation, and skill
to discern folly with a microscopic eye, is in any
wise able to compensate for the corrosions of conscience,
where such discoveries have been attained by breach
of confidence, and treachery towards unguarded, because
unsuspecting innocence of conduct. We are always
laughing at one another for running over none but
the visible objects in every city, and for avoiding
the conversation of the natives, except on general
subjects of literature—returning home only
to tell again what has already been told. By
the candid inhabitants of Italian states, however,
much honour is given to our British travellers, who,
as they say, viaggiono con profitto[Footnote:
Travel for improvement], and scarce ever fail to carry
home with them from other nations, every thing which
can benefit or adorn their own. Candour, and
a good humoured willingness to receive and reciprocate
pleasure, seems indeed one of the standing virtues
of Italy; I have as yet seen no fastidious contempt,
or affected rejection of any thing for being what
we call low; and I have a notion there is much
less of those distinctions at Milan than at London,
where birth does so little for a man, that if he depends
on that, and forbears other methods of distinguishing
himself from his footman, he will stand a chance of
being treated no better than him by the world. Here
a person’s rank is ascertained, and his society
settled, at his immediate entrance into life; a gentleman
and lady will always be regarded as such, let what
will be their behaviour.—It is therefore
highly commendable when they seek to adorn their minds
by culture, or pluck out those weeds, which in hot
countries will spring up among the riches of the harvest,
and afford a sure, but no immediately pleasing proof
of the soil’s natural fertility. But my
country-women would rather hear a little of our interieur,
or, as we call it, family management; which appears
arranged in a manner totally new to me; who find the
lady of every house as unacquainted with her own,
and her husband’s affairs, as I who apply to
her for information.—No house account, no
weekly bills perplex her peace; if eight servants