paternal authority that fathers used to exercise over
their families in England before commerce had run
her levelling plough over all ranks, and annihilated
even the name of subordination. If he hear of
any person living long in Florence without being able
to give a good account of his business there, the
Duke warns him to go away; and if he loiter after such
warning given, sends him out. Does any nobleman
shine in pompous equipage or splendid table; the Grand
Duke enquires soon into his pretensions, and scruples
not to give personal advice, and add grave reproofs
with regard to the management of each individual’s
private affairs, the establishment of their sons,
marriage of their sisters, &c. When they appeared
to complain of this behaviour to
me, I know
not, replied I, what to answer: one has always
read and heard that the Sovereigns ought to behave
in despotic governments like the
fathers of their
family: and the Archbishop of Cambray inculcates
no other conduct than this, when advising his pupil,
heir to the crown of France. “Yes, Madam,”
replied one of my auditors, with an acuteness truly
Italian; “but this Prince is
our father-in-law.”
The truth is, much of an English traveller’s
pleasure is taken off at Florence by the incessant
complaints of a government he does not understand,
and of oppressions he cannot remedy. Tis so dull
to hear people lament the want of liberty, to which
I question whether they have any pretensions; and
without ever knowing whether it is the tyranny or
the tyrant they complain of. Tedious however
and most uninteresting are their accounts of grievances,
which a subject of Great Britain has much ado to comprehend,
and more to pity; as they are now all heart-broken,
because they must say their prayers in their own language
and not in Latin, which, how it can be construed into
misfortune, a Tuscan alone can tell.
Lord Corke has given us many pleasing anecdotes of
those who were formerly Princes in this land.
Had they a sovereign of the old Medici family, they
would go to bed when he bid them quietly enough
I believe, and say their prayers in what language
he would have them: ’tis in our
parliamentary phrase, the men, not the measures
that offend them; and while they pretend to whine
as if despotism displeased them, they detest every
republican state, feel envy towards Venice, and contempt
for Lucca.
I would rather talk of their gallery than their government:
and surely nothing made by man ever so completely
answered a raised expectation, as the apparent contest
between Titian’s recumbent beauty, glowing with
colour and animated by the warmest expression, and
the Greek statue of symmetrical perfection and fineness
of form inimitable, where sculpture supplies all that
fancy can desire, and all that imagination can suggest.
These two models of excellence seem placed near each
other, at once to mock all human praise, and defy
all future imitation. The listening slave appears