In the afternoon we all looked out of our windows which faced the street,—­not mine, as they happily command a view of the river, the Caseine woods, &c. and from them enjoyed a complete sight of an Italian horse-race.  For after the coaches have paraded up and down some time to shew the equipages, liveries, &c. all have on a sudden notice to quit the scene of action; and all do quit it, in such a manner as is surprising.  The street is now covered with sawdust, and made fast at both ends:  the starting-post is adorned with elegant booths, lined with red velvet, for the court and first nobility:  at the other end a piece of tapestry is hung, to prevent the creatures from dashing their brains out when they reach the goal.  Thousands and ten thousands of people on foot fill the course, that it is standing wonder to me still that numbers are not killed.  The prizes are now exhibited to view, quite in the old classical style; a piece of crimson damask for the winner perhaps; a small silver bason and ewer for the second; and so on, leaving no performer unrewarded.  At last come out the concurrenti without riders, but with a narrow leathern strap hung across their backs, which has a lump of ivory fastened to the end of it, all set full of sharp spikes like a hedge-hog, and this goads them along while galloping, worse than any spurs could do; because the faster they run, the more this odd machine keeps jumping up and down, and pricking their sides ridiculously enough; and it makes one laugh to see that some of them are not provoked by it not to run at all, but set about plunging, in order to rid themselves of the inconvenience, instead of driving forward to divert the mob; who leap and shout and caper with delight, and lash the laggers along with great indignation indeed, and with the most comical gestures.  I never saw horses in so droll a state of degradation before, for they are all striped or spotted, or painted of some colour to distinguish them each from other; and nine or ten often start at a time, to the great danger of lookers-on I think, but exceedingly to my entertainment, who have the comfort of Mrs. Greatheed’s company, and the advantage of seeing all safely from her well-situated terreno, or ground-floor.

The chariot-race was more splendid, but less diverting:  this was performed in the Piazza, or Square, an unpaved open place not bigger than Covent Garden I believe, and the ground strangely uneven.  The cars were light and elegant; one driver and two horses to each:  the first very much upon the principle of the antique chariots described by old poets, and the last trapped showily in various colours, adapted to the carriages, that people might make their betts accordingly upon the pink, the blue, the green, &c.  I was exceedingly amused with seeing what so completely revived all classic images, and seemed so little altered from the classic times.  Cavalier D’Elci, in reply to my expressions of delight, told me that the same