forcibly reminded of the absence of any municipal body—­although Pretoria is the seat of Government—­for dealing with the sanitary and other wants of the town.  The dust, every day (as at Johannesburg), was intolerable, although, with the abundance of water flowing unceasingly through the streets, it would be the easiest thing in the world to apply it, as much as could possibly be wanted, to water them, and keep the dust down.  I remained for three weeks at Pretoria.  While there I attended some meetings of the Volksraad, accompanied by a Dutch friend who kept me au fait of the proceedings by translating to me the speeches of the various members, on the subjects under discussion.

The debates are held in a very large, somewhat low-pitched apartment.  About fifty members were present.  The President of the Volksraad sat at a table on a platform, covered with green cloth.  On one side of him, at the same table, sat Paul Kruger, the President of the Transvaal Republic.  General Joubert—­who defeated the English at Majuba Hill—­sat at a separate table on the left of the chairman.

I was also present, more than once, at the sittings of the High Court of Justice.  The proceedings are conducted both in English and Dutch.

By the courtesy of the Chief Justice, I was introduced by him at a special interview, which lasted half-an-hour, to Paul Kruger.  During our conversation, which was carried on by my speaking in English, translated into Dutch by the Chief Justice, I referred to the fact of my having been introduced to him in England some years ago.  I went on to speak of my having come from England to South Africa to learn.  That I had already learned much, and that I was much pleased with all I had seen, especially in the Transvaal, which seemed to me a country teeming with riches and great natural resources.  That I was a great friend to railroads, and that I was never in a country which I thought required railroads so much as the Transvaal.  I expressed a hope, therefore, to see the day when the country would be penetrated by them in every direction—­east, and south, and west.  The President smiled at my strongly expressed aspiration, but did not give me any other reply.

Like every other town in the Transvaal, Pretoria shows signs of rapidly-growing prosperity.  Public buildings and private dwelling-houses are springing up in every direction.  The Post Office, recently finished, is capacious and commodious; and the new Government buildings for the accommodation of the Volksraad and the Courts of Justice, already commenced, but, as yet, only a few feet from the ground, and which cover a very large space, promise to be very fine and imposing.  While at Pretoria I had ample opportunity for observing many of the prevalent features of both political and social life, and especially of the condition of the large native population of the town.

The Pretoria winter races took place during my stay there.  The races were very good and well-conducted.  There was a large and orderly crowd who appeared thoroughly to enjoy themselves, and their outing in that fine and sunny climate.  The Racecourse seemed a good one, though rather hard owing to the dry weather.  It is in a very pretty spot with picturesque surroundings.