The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

RONDELETIA.

The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made.  Its inventors, Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the name of this odor from the Rondeletia, the Chyn-len of the Chinese; or from the R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor.  We have before observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different sources:  that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed.  Again:  there are certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself.  This effect is exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when mixed, upon the nerve of vision:  such, for instance, as when yellow and blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are united, the compound color is known as puce or violet.

Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce a new fragrance, i.e. Rondeletia!  It is such combinations that constitute in reality “a new perfume,” which, though often advertised, is very rarely attained.  Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used accordingly.  If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or hiding the presence of the other.  In this way we discover that patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most delicate.

Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains.  By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in the atmosphere of the most subtle nature:  not only that which is pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful.  If an unpleasant odor is a warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the general benefit of health.

To return, however, to Rondeletia:  it will be seen by the annexed formulae, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its peculiar character—­that is, cloves and lavender—­it contains musk, vanilla, &c.  These substances are used in these as in nearly all other bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the handkerchief.

ESSENCE OF RONDELETIA.

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The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.