The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

It is a fashion of the present day for people to say “that they do not like musk;” but, nevertheless, from great experience in one of the largest manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that the public taste for musk is as great as any perfumer desires.  Those substances containing it always take the preference in ready sale—­so long as the vendor takes care to assure his customer “that there is no musk in it.”

[Illustration:  The Musk Deer.]

The perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of soap, sachet powder, and in mixing for liquid perfumery.  The just reputation of Paris’s original Windsor soap is due, in the main, to its delightful odor.  The soap is, doubtless, of the finest quality, but its perfume stamps it among the elite—­its fragrance it owes to musk.

The alkaline reaction of soap is favorable to the development of the odoriferous principle of musk.  If, however, a strong solution of potass be poured on to grain musk, ammonia is developed instead of the true musk smell.

EXTRACT OF MUSK.

Grain musk, 2 oz. 
Rectified spirit, 1 gallon.

After standing for one month, at a summer temperature, it is fit to draw off.  Such an extract is that which is used for mixing in other perfumes.  That extract of musk which is prepared for retail sale, is prepared thus:—­

EXTRAIT DE MUSC.

Extract of musk (as above), 1 pint.
     " ambergris, 1/2 "
     " rose triple, 1/4 "

Mix and filter it; it is then fit for bottling.

This preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk made according to our first formula, and is also more profitable to the vendor.  It will be seen hereafter that the original extract of musk is principally used for a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give permanence to a volatile odor; customers requiring, in a general way, that which is incompatible, namely, that a perfume shall be strong to smell, i.e. very volatile, and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief for a long period, ergo, not volatile!  Small portions of extract of musk, mixed with esprit de rose, violet, tuberose, and others, do, in a measure, attain this object; that is, after the violet, &c., has evaporated, the handkerchief still retains an odor, which, although not that of the original smell, yet gives satisfaction, because it is pleasant to the nasal organ.

SECTION V.

AMMONIA.—­Under the various titles of “Smelling Salts,” “Preston Salts,” “Inexhaustible Salts,” “Eau de Luce,” “Sal Volatile,” ammonia, mixed with other odoriferous bodies, has been very extensively consumed as material for gratifying the olfactory nerve.

The perfumer uses liq. amm. fortis, that is, strong liquid ammonia, and the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, for preparing the various “salts” that he sells.  These materials he does not attempt to make; in fact, it is quite out of his province so to do, but he procures them ready for his hand through some manufacturing chemist.  The best preparation for smelling-bottles is what is termed INEXHAUSTIBLE SALTS, which is prepared thus:—­

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The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.