The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

Otto of rose to many has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the homeopathic quantities as it rises from a single rose-bloom, who is it that will not admit that “the rose is sweet?” The odor of civet is best imparted, not by actual contact, but by being placed in the neighborhood of absorbent materials.  Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being covered with silk and placed in a writing-desk, perfumes the paper and envelopes delightfully, and so much so, that they retain the odor after passing through the post.

EXTRACT OF CIVET is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating for a month, it is fit to strain off.  It is principally used as a “fixing” ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor.  The French perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who seem to prefer extract of musk.  From a quarter of a pint to half a pint is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume.

CASTOR is a secretion of the Castor fiber, or beaver, very similar to civet.  Though we have often heard of its being used in perfumery, we do not personally know that such is the case.

MUSK.—­This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal secretion; it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the male animal.  In the perfumery trade these little bags are called “pods,” and as imported it is called “pod musk.”  When the musk is separated from the skin or sack in which it is contained, it is then called “grain musk.”

The musk deer (Moschus moschatus) is an inhabitant of the great mountain range which belts the north of India, and branches out into Siberia, Thibet, and China.  And it is also found in the Altaic range, near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges, but always on the borders of the line of perpetual snow.  It is from the male animal only that the musk is produced.

[Illustration:  Musk Pod, actual size.]

It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is still so among Eastern nations.  The musk from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, is most esteemed, that from Bengal is inferior, and from Russia is of still lower quality.  The strength and the quantity produced by a single animal varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal.  A single musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk.  Musk is imported into England from China, in caddies of from 50 to 100 ounces each.  When adulterated with the animal’s blood, which is often the case, it forms into lumps or clots; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark, friable earth.  Those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered, as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk; upon this rule, we presume that the best musk is the most worthy of adulteration.  Musk is remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent; everything in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and long retains its odor, although not in actual contact with it.

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The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.