The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

Spirituous extract of cassie pomade, 1 pint. 
Esprit de rose, from pomade, 1/2 "
Tincture of orris, 1/2 "
Spirituous extract of tuberose pomade, 1/2 "
Otto of almonds, 3 drops.

After filtration it is fit for bottling.  In this mixture, it is the extract of cassie which has the leading smell, but modified by the rose and tuberose becomes very much like the violet.  Moreover, it has a green color, like the extract of violet; and as the eye influences the judgment by the sense of taste, so it does with the sense of smell.  Extract of violet enters largely into the composition of several of the most popular bouquets, such as extract of spring flowers and many others.

VITIVERT, or Kus-Kus, is the rhizome of an Indian grass.  In the neighborhood of Calcutta, and in the city, this material has an extensive use by being manufactured into awnings, blinds, and sun-shades, called Tatty.  During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles water over them; this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the atmosphere, in a very agreeable manner, with the odoriferous principle of the vitivert.  It has a smell between the aromatic or spicy odor and that of flowers—­if such a distinction can be admitted.  We classify it with orris root, not that it has any odor resembling it, but because it has a like effect in use in perfumery, and because it is prepared as a tincture for obtaining its odor.

About four pounds of the dried vitivert, as it is imported, being cut small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight, produces the

ESSENCE OF VITIVERT of the shops.  In this state it is rarely used as a perfume, although it is occasionally asked for by those who, perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in “the Eastern clime.”  The extract, essence, or tincture of vitivert, enters into the composition of several of the much-admired and old bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as “Mousselaine des Indies,” for which preparation M. Delcroix, in the zenith of his fame, created quite a furor in the fashionable world.

[Illustration:  Vitivert.]

Essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving 2 oz. of otto of vitivert in 1 gallon of spirit; this preparation is stronger than the tincture, as above.

MARECHALE and BOUQUET DU ROI, perfumes which have also “had their day,” owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert contained in them.

Bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and preventing moth, and, when ground, is used to manufacture certain sachet powders.

Otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation; a hundred-weight of vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, which in appearance very much resembles otto of santal.  I have placed a sample of it in the museum at Kew.

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The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.