The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

Slit the pods from end to end, so as to lay open the interior, then cut them up in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, macerate with occasional agitation for about a month; the tincture thus formed will only require straining through cotton to be ready for any use that is required.  In this state it is rarely sold for a perfume, but is consumed in the manufacture of compound odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they are called.

Extract of Vanilla is also used largely in the manufacture of hair-washes, which are readily made by mixing the extract of vanilla with either rose, orange, elder, or rosemary water, and afterwards filtering.

We need scarcely mention, that vanilla is greatly used by cooks and confectioners for flavoring.

VERBENA, or VERVAINE.—­The scented species of this plant, the lemon verbena, Aloysia citriodora (Hooker), gives one of the finest perfumes with which we are acquainted; it is well known as yielding a delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the plant; some of the little vessels or sacks containing the otto must be crushed in this act, as there is little or no odor by merely smelling at the plant.

The otto, which can be extracted from the leaves by distillation with water, on account of its high price, is scarcely, if ever, used by the manufacturing perfumer, but it is most successfully imitated by mixing the otto of lemon grass, Andropogon schoenanthus, with rectified spirit, the odor of which resembles the former to a nicety.  The following is a good form for making the

EXTRACT OF VERBENA.

Rectified spirit, 1 pint. 
Otto of lemon grass, 3 drachms.
  " lemon peel, 2 oz.
  " orange peel, 1/2 oz.

After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is fit for sale.

Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus—­it is sold under the title

EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE.

Rectified spirit, 1 pint. 
Otto of orange peel, 1 oz. " lemon peel, 2 oz. " citron, 1 drachm. " lemon grass, 2-1/2 drachms. 
Extrait de fleur d’orange, 7 oz. " " tubereuse, 7 oz. 
Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint.

This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, and is one of the most elegant perfumes that is made.  Being white, it does not stain the handkerchief.  It is best when sold fresh made, as by age the citrine oils oxidize, and the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say “it is sour.”  The vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great many of the favorite bouquets that are sold under the title “Court Bouquet,” and others which are mixtures of violet, rose, and jasmine, with verbena or vervaine in different proportions.  In these preparations, as also in Eau de Portugal, and in fact where any of the citrine ottos are used, a much finer product is obtained by using grape spirit or brandy in preference to the English corn spirit as a solvent for them.  Nor do they deteriorate so quickly in French spirit as in English.  Whether this be due to the oil of wine (oeanthic ether) or not we cannot say, but think it is so.

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The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.