ORRIS, properly IRIS.—­The dried rhizome of Iris florentina has a very pleasant odor, which, for the want of a better comparison, is said to resemble the smell of violets; it is, however, exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of that modest flower when such invidious comparisons are made.  Nevertheless the perfume of iris root is good, and well worthy of the place it has obtained as a perfuming substance.  The powder of orris root is very extensively used in the manufacture of sachet powders, tooth-powder, &c.  It fathers that celebrated “oriental herb” known as “Odonto.”  For tincture of orris, or, as the perfumers call it,

EXTRACT OF ORRIS,

Take orris root, crushed, 7 lbs. 
Rectified spirits, 1 gallon.

After standing together for about a fortnight, the extract is fit to take off.  It requires considerable time to drain away, and, to prevent loss, the remainder of the orris should be placed in the tincture press.  This extract enters into the composition of many of the most celebrated bouquets, such as “Jockey Club,” and others, but is never sold alone, because its odor, although grateful, is not sufficiently good to stand public opinion upon its own merits; but in combination its value is very great; possessing little aroma itself, yet it has the power of strengthening the odor of other fragrant bodies; like the flint and steel, which though comparatively incombustible, readily fire inflammable bodies.

PALM.—­The odor of palm oil—­the fat oil of commerce—­is due to a fragrant principle which it contains.  By infusion in alcohol, the odoriferous body is dissolved, and resembles, to a certain extent, the tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but is very indifferent, and is not likely to be brought into use, though several attempts have been made to render it of service when the cultivation of the violets have failed from bad seasons.

PATCHOULY.—­Pogostemon patchouly (LINDLEY), Plectranthus crassifolius (BURNETT), is an herb that grows extensively in India and China.  It somewhat resembles our garden sage in its growth and form, but the leaves are not so fleshy.

[Illustration:  Patchouly.]

The odor of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the leaves and stems, and is readily procured by distillation. 1 cwt. of good herb will yield about 28 oz. of the essential oil, which is of a dark brown color, and of a density about the same as that of oil of sandal wood, which it resembles in its physical character.  Its odor is the most powerful of any derived from the botanic kingdom; hence, if mixed in the proportion of measure for measure, it completely covers the smell of all other bodies.

EXTRACT OF PATCHOULY.

Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. 
Otto of patchouly, 1-1/4 oz.
  " rose, 1/4 oz.

The essence of patchouly thus made is that which is found in the perfumers’ shops of Paris and London.  Although few perfumes have had such a fashionable run, yet when smelled at in its pure state, it is far from agreeable, having a kind of mossy or musty odor, analogous to Lycopodium, or, as some say, it smells of “old coats.”