The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

NUTMEG.—­The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all.  Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it is rarely used in perfumery.  The ground nuts are, however, used advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent bags.—­See “Sachet’s Powders.”

OLIBANUM is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in this country, in the manufacture of incense and pastilles.  It is chiefly interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies of which frequent mention is made in the Holy volume.[C]

“It is believed,” says Burnett, “to have been one of the ingredients in the sweet incense of the Jews; and it is still burnt as incense in the Greek and Romish churches, where the diffusion of such odors round the altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service.”

Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, like most of the balsams, probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body, associated with the benzoic acid it contains.

For making the tincture or extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the gum to 1 gallon of the spirit.

ORANGE.—­Under the title “Neroli” we have already spoken of the odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom.  We have now to speak of what is known in the market as Essence of Orange, or, as it is more frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,—­a name, however, which we cannot admit in a classified list of the “odors of plants.”

The otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of the orange fruit, is procured by expression and by distillation.  The peel is rasped in order to crush the little vessels or sacs that imprison the otto.

Its abundance in the peel is shown by pinching a piece near the flame of a candle; the otto that spirts out ignites with a brilliant illumination.

It has many uses in perfumery, and from its refreshing fragrance finds many admirers.

It is the leading ingredient in what is sold as “Lisbon Water” and “Eau de Portugal.”  The following is a very useful form for preparing

LISBON WATER.

Rectified spirit (not less than 60 over proof), 1 gallon. 
Otto of orange peel, 3 oz.
  " lemon peel, 3 oz.
  " rose 1/4 oz.

This is a form for

EAU DE PORTUGAL.

Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 1 gallon. 
Essential oil of orange peel, 6 oz.
   " lemon peel, 1 oz.
   " lemon grass, 1/4 oz.
   " bergamot, 1 oz.
   " otto of rose, 1/4 oz.

It should be noted that these perfumes are never to be filled into wet bottles, for if in any way damp from water, a minute portion of the ottos are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to the mixture.  Indeed, all bottles should be spirit rinsed prior to being filled with any perfume, but especially with those containing essences of orange or lemon peel.

Copyrights
Project Gutenberg
The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.