The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

Mix and allow to stand for a fortnight:  it is then fit for bottling, and is a perfume that gives a great deal of satisfaction.

Myrtle-flower water is sold in France under the name of eau d’ange, and may be prepared like rose, elder, or other flower waters.

NEROLI, OR ORANGE-FLOWER.—­Two distinct odors are procurable from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for procuring them.  This difference of perfume from the same flower is a great advantage to the manufacturer.  This curious fact is worthy of inquiry by the chemical philosopher.  It is not peculiar to the orange-flower, but applies to many others, especially rose—­probably to all flowers.

When orange-flowers are treated by the maceration process, that is, by infusion in a fatty body, we procure orange-flower pomatum, its strength and quality being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower made in the same grease.

By digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified spirits in the proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds of pomade to a gallon of spirit, for about a fortnight at a summer heat, we obtain the extrait de fleur d’orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume surpassed by none.  In this state its odor resembles the original so much, that with closed eyes the best judge could not distinguish the scent of the extract from that of the flower.  The peculiar flowery odor of this extract renders it valuable to perfumers, not only to sell in a pure state, but slightly modified with other extraits passes for “sweet pea,” “magnolia,” &c., which it slightly resembles in fragrance.

[Illustration:  Orange.]

Now, when orange-flowers are distilled with water, we procure the otto of the blossom, which is known commercially as oil of neroli.  The neroli procured from the flowers of the Citrus aurantium is considered to be the finest quality, and is called “neroli petale.”  The next quality, “neroli bigarade,” is derived from the blossoms of the Citrus bigaradia, or Seville orange.  Another quality, which is considered inferior to the preceding, is the neroli petit grain, obtained by distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different species of the citrus.

The “petale” and “bigarade” neroli are used to an enormous extent in the manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes.  The petit grain is mainly consumed for scenting soap.  To form the esprit de neroli, dissolve 1-1/2 oz. of neroli petale in one gallon of rectified spirits.  Although very agreeable, and extensively used in the manufacture of bouquets, it has no relation to the flowery odor of the extrait de fleur d’orange, as derived from the same flowers by maceration; in fact, it has as different an odor as though obtained from another plant, yet in theory both these extraits are but alcoholic solutions of the otto of the flower.

The water used for distillation in procuring the neroli, when well freed from the oil, is imported into this country under the name of eau de fleur d’orange, and may be used, like elder-flower and rose-water, for the skin, and as an eye lotion.  It is remarkable for its fine fragrance, and it is astonishing that it is not more used, being moderate in price.  (See Syringa.)

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The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.