The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

First dissolve the ottos in the spirit, then add the rose-water.  After filtration it is ready for sale.  When compounds of this kind do not become bright by passing through blotting-paper, the addition of a little carbonate of magnesia prior to filtering effectually clears them.  The water in the above recipe is only added in order that the article produced may be retailed at a moderate price, and would, of course, be better without that “universal friend.”

JASMINE.—­

                    “Luxuriant above all,
    The jasmine throwing wide her elegant sweets.”

This flower is one of the most prized by the perfumer.  Its odor is delicate and sweet, and so peculiar that it is without comparison, and as such cannot be imitated.  When the flowers of the Jasminum odoratissimum are distilled, repeatedly using the water of distillation over fresh flowers, the essential oil of jasmine may be procured.  It is, however, exceedingly rare, on account of the enormous cost of production.  There was a fine sample of six ounces exhibited in the Tunisian department of the Crystal Palace, the price of which was 9_l._ the fluid ounce!  The plant is the Yasmyn of the Arabs, from which our name is derived.

In the perfumer’s laboratory, the method of obtaining the odor is by absorption, or, as the French term it, enfleurage; that is, by spreading a mixture of pure lard and suet on a glass tray, and sticking the fresh-gathered flowers all over it, leaving them to stand a day or so, and repeating the operation with fresh flowers—­the grease absorbs the odor.  Finally, the pomade is scraped off the glass or slate, melted at as low a temperature as possible, and strained.

Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared much in the same way.  Layers of cotton wool, previously steeped in oil of ben (obtained by pressure from the blanched nuts of the Moringa oleifera) are covered with jasmine flowers, which is repeated several times; finally, the cotton or linen cloths which some perfumers use, are squeezed under a press.  The jasmine oil thus produced is the Huile antique au jasmin of the French houses.

The “extract of jasmine” is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the jasmine pomade or oil, and allowing them to remain together for a fortnight at a summer heat.  The best quality extract requires two pounds of pomatum to every quart of spirit.  The same can be done with the oil of jasmine.  If the pomade is used, it must be cut up fine previously to being put into the spirit; if the oil is used, it must be shaken well together every two or more hours, otherwise, on account of its specific gravity, the oil separates, and but little surface is exposed to the spirit.  After the extract is strained off, the “washed” pomatum or oil is still useful, if remelted, in the composition of pomatum for the hair, and gives more satisfaction to a customer than any of the “creams and balms,” &c. &c., made up and scented with essential oils; the one smells of the flower, the other “a nondescript.”

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The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.