To cut out the bag, lay the leather on the bench, enameled side downward, and see that the patterns lie on it so the creases will run from the top to bottom of the bag when made.  The sides must be taken first, and as they are more exposed than any other part, they should be taken from the best part of the hide.  Take the gussets next, then the bottom.  The welts are taken from the cuttings which are left.  To make the handle, glue a lot of odd pieces together about 61/2 inches long, 1/2 inch wide, and the same thickness, and when dry pare the edges away until it is perfectly round and slightly tapering toward each end.  It is then divided and glued top and bottom to a strip of good leather cut to shape, Fig. 12, which is passed through the rings at each end, and turned back to form a shape.  Put a few stitches through close to the rings before the fittings are glued on, and cover with a piece of cow-hide long enough to go through the two rings and along the under side, then stitch it.  Trim and dye the edges, rubbing them afterward with a piece of cloth to produce a polish.  Before making the handle, the plates must be on the rings, or it will prove a difficult job to get them on afterward.

The stiffening for the bottom will be cut as if for a carpet bag.  Fig. 11 represents the stiffening for the gussets, and is cut from a board half the thickness of that used for the bottom.

The linings may be cut from the outside patterns by reducing them the 11/2 inches, allowed for covering the frame, and 1/8 inch for each welt.  A lining of scarlet or blue roan greatly adds to the appearance and durability of a bag.  A skin large enough for a 14 inch or 16 inch will cost about 3s.

Cow-hide for the outside is sold at 1s. 8d. per square foot, but the leather sellers frequently have pieces large enough for making a bag which they will sell at a slight reduction, and which answers this purpose as well as cutting a hide.  In seaming the bag, take care not to wrinkle it in the clams.  The welts in this must reach only to the frame, the same as in the carpet bag; the rest of the seam must be neatly closed and rubbed down, so that it will not be lumpy on the frame.  Before turning the bag warm it before the fire, especially if it is cold weather.  Glue in the bottom stiffening first, and then the gussets, rubbing them well down with the bone.  When these are set, prepare for the operation of framing.  Fold one of the sides to get the middle of it, cut a hole for the lock barrel about 11/4 inches from the edge, and press it over.  Be careful not to cut it too large or the hole will show.  Pierce a hole through the leather for the lock plate, press this tightly on the frame, and clinch the clams underneath, to hold it securely.  Make holes for the handle plates and fasten them on in a similar manner.  Two slits must be cut near the middle of the other side of bag, about 3/4 inch from the edge, for the hasp to go through.  This bag must be sewn to the frame all round, and care must be taken that a sufficient fullness is allowed in the middle of the gusset to enable it to close easily round the joints of the frame.  A thumbpiece must be sewn on the bag at the hasp to open it by.  The lining of this bag is sewn through the frame all round in the same manner as the side linings of the carpet bag.