The brief bag must be made of leather, and as there is the same amount of work in making it, whether it be of split or hide, it will be sure to give greater satisfaction if the latter is chosen.  The manufacture of this bag differs considerably from the others.  The sides and gussets in the carpet bag are cut straight from top to bottom, but in the brief bag they must be shaped to fit the frame, and give it a more comely appearance.  The frame, as before described, is quite different.  The way to commence with this bag is to open the frame as in Fig. 7, so that it will lie perfectly flat upon the bench.  With the rule measure it carefully between the corners, A, A, and again at A, B. The distance between A and B being less when the frame is open than when closed, an additional 1/2 inch must be added to allow the gusset to bend freely round the hinge.  Having correctly taken these measurements, get a sheet of brown paper and fold it in the middle; the reason for this is to allow of each side of the pattern taking the same curve at the swelled part.  Cut the pattern for the sides first by ascertaining half the distance, A, A, and marking it on to the edge of the paper, measuring from the folded edge toward the ends.  Next mark on the folded edge the depth you intend the bag to be, allowing in this, as in the carpet bag, 11/2 inches for covering the frame.  The depths of brief bags vary so much that I will give these only as a guide, leaving my readers to add or reduce as their fancy guides them; but if they should strictly adhere to these given below, I am certain they will find them very useful sizes.

For a 12 inch frame cut the sides and gussets 101/2 inches in depth; when made up, these will be 9 inches from the frame to the bottom.  For a 14 inch frame add 1 inch, and for a 16 inch add 2 inches.  This will make these 10 inches and 11 inches in depth respectively when made up, and either of these will be found a very useful bag for many purposes.  The width of the bottoms to be cut 5 inches, 51/2 inches, and 6 inches, the 5 inch, of course, for the 12 inch bag, the 51/2 inch for the 14 inch, and the 6 inch for the 16 inch.  The depth having been decided upon, and marked on the folded edge of the paper, make another mark the same distance from the edge at the first mark, H. The bottom of the sides being 1 inch longer than the top, add 1/2 inch to the measurement of the top of pattern when the bottom part is marked off at J L. Draw a curved line between H L, as in Fig. 9, and cut through the two thicknesses of paper at one time, keeping them well together to insure them being alike.  The gusset pattern may be cut in the same way, D to D, Fig. 10, being half the distance of A B, Fig. 7, and the 1/2 inch added for going round the joint; E E, the swelled part, which bends into the bag when the frame is closed, and also allows it to open perfectly square; F F is half the width of the bottom of gusset.  A pattern for the bottom of the bag may be made by folding a piece of paper each way to get the length and width; make a small hole through the four thicknesses, open it and mark it from hole to hole, using the rule as a guide.  This will be found to be perfectly accurate.