Scientific American Supplement, No. 561, October 2, 1886 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 141 pages of information about Scientific American Supplement, No. 561, October 2, 1886.

Scientific American Supplement, No. 561, October 2, 1886 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 141 pages of information about Scientific American Supplement, No. 561, October 2, 1886.

A good serviceable pair of clams may be made by taking two staves of a good-sized barrel, and cutting about 10 inches off the end of each.  Screw together with three screws (as in Fig. 4), and shape the uppermost ends so that the outsides meet in a sharp ridge along the top; this will give a flat surface within the mouth, by which a hold of the work may be obtained.  A two-inch screw will be long enough for the bottom, which must be turned in as tightly as possible; the others must not be less than 3 inches, as there will be a space of 11/2 or two inches between the staves at the part where they are inserted.  Screw these just tight enough to give a good sharp spring to the mouth of the clams when they are pressed open; this will insure the work being held firmly while being sewn.  Sandpaper them over to give a smooth appearance, and these will be found as useful as bought ones.

A piece of basil leather will be required for the bottom and welts of the bag.  This may be purchased at a leather seller’s with the tools.  Cut out the bottom first; the welts may be cut from any narrow pieces.  These must be cut seven-eighths of an inch wide, then folded over, and lightly hammered down.  This brings the two edges together, and when placed in position, they should lie evenly between the edges of the material.  A piece of string may be laid in the welt to give it a fuller appearance if the leather is very thin.

The following dimensions of bags when made up will enable the maker to choose the most useful size: 

  No. 1, 16 by 14 inches; No. 2, 19 by 16 inches;
  No. 3, 21 by 17 inches; No. 4, 24 by 18 inches.

The sizes of frames and parts when cut will be as follows: 

          Frame.  Sides.  Bottom.  Gussets.

  No. 1, 15 inches 161/2 by 151/2 161/2 by 51/2 151/2 by 51/2
  No. 2, 18 inches 191/2 by 171/2 191/2 by 6 17 by 6
  No. 3, 20 inches 211/2 by 181/2 211/2 by 61/2 181/2 by 61/2
  No. 4, 23 inches 241/2 by 191/2 241/2 by 61/2 191/2 by 61/2

Taking No. 1, 161/2 inches will be the length of sides and 151/2 inches the depth.  The gussets are also 151/2 deep, the width being 51/2, the same as the bottom.  Take 11/2 inches from the depth of these to allow for covering the frame, and 1/2 inch from the length to allow for the seams, and we have a bag 16 inches long by 14 inches deep.

And now to commence.  Arrange the pieces of carpet on the board, and mark off the size of each part required with a piece of chalk or pipeclay.  By cutting with the carpet, laying the right side up, we shall be able to see that the pattern of it will be in the same direction on both sides of the bag when made up.  We next take the ball of hemp, and by pushing the finger through the hole in the center of it, drive out the end.  To use the hemp from the inside is much the best way, because the ball will stand perfectly still, whereas, if started from the outside, it will be darting in all directions about the floor of the workroom, and entwining itself around any obstacle which lies there, unless it is placed securely in a box and drawn out through a hole in the center of lid.

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Scientific American Supplement, No. 561, October 2, 1886 from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.