It is remarkable, that notwithstanding my inquiries from many gentlemen, both native and foreign, including savans and beys, the only educated person I ever met in Egypt who was able to give me any information on the subject of its Gipsies was the Khedive or Viceroy himself, a fact which will not seem strange to those who are aware of the really wonderful extent of his knowledge of the country which he rules.  I had been but a few days in Cairo when, at an interview with the Khedive, Mr Beardsley, the American Consul, by whom I was presented, mentioned to his Highness that I was interested in the subject of the Gipsies, upon which the Khedive said that there were in Egypt many people known as “Rhagarin” (Ghagarin), who were probably the same as the “Bohemiens” or Gipsies of Europe.  His words were, as nearly as I can remember, as follows:—­

“They are wanderers who live in tents, and are regarded with contempt even by the peasantry.  Their women tell fortunes, tattoo, {189} and sell small-wares; the men work in iron (quincaillerie).  They are all adroit thieves, and noted as such.  The men may sometimes be seen going around the country with monkeys; in fact, they appear to be in all respects the same people as the Gipsies of Europe.”

This was all that I could learn for several days; for though there were Gipsies—­or “Egypcians”—­in Egypt, I had almost as much trouble to find them as Eilert Sundt had to discover their brethren in Norway.  In speaking of the subject to Mr Edward Elias, a gentleman well known in Egypt, he most kindly undertook to secure the aid of the chief of police, who in turn had recourse to the Shekh of the Gipsies.  But the Shekh I was told was not himself a Gipsy, and there were none of his subjects in Cairo.  After a few days, three wanderers, supposed to be Rommany, were arrested; but on examination they proved to be ignorant of any language except Arabic.  Their occupation was music and dancing “with a stick;” in fact, they were performers in those curious and extremely ancient Fescennine farces, or Atellanae, which are depicted on ancient vases, and are still acted on the roads in Egypt as they were in Greece before the days of Thespis.  Then I was informed that Gipsies were often encamped near the Pyramids, but research in this direction was equally fruitless.

Remembering what his Highness had told me, that Gipsies went about exhibiting monkeys, I one day, on meeting a man bearing an ape, endeavoured to enter into conversation with him.  Those who know Cairo can imagine with what result!  In an instant we were surrounded by fifty natives of the lower class, jabbering, jeering, screaming, and begging—­all intent, as it verily seemed, on defeating my object.  I gave the monkey-bearer money; instead of thanking me, he simply clamoured for more, while the mob became intolerable, so that I was glad to make my escape.