that he will not reveal the secret that year.
But of an incident so triumphant in the annals of
the gastric art, our philosopher would not deprive
posterity of the knowledge. The animal had been
bled to death by a wound under the shoulder, whence,
after a copious effusion, the master-cook extracted
the entrails, washed them with wine, and hanging the
animal by the feet, he crammed down the throat the
stuffings already prepared. Then covering the
half of the pig with a paste of barley, thickened
with wine and oil, he put it in a small oven, or on
a heated table of brass, where it was gently roasted
with all due care: when the skin was browned,
he boiled the other side; and then, taking away the
barley paste, the pig was served up, at once boiled
and roasted. These cooks, with a vegetable, could
counterfeit the shape and the taste of fish and flesh.
The king of Bithynia, in some expedition against the
Scythians, in the winter, and at a great distance from
the sea, had a violent longing for a small fish called
aphy—a pilchard, a herring, or an
anchovy. His cook cut a turnip to the perfect
imitation of its shape; then fried in oil, salted,
and well powdered with the grains of a dozen black
poppies, his majesty’s taste was so exquisitely
deceived, that he praised the root to his guests as
an excellent fish. This transmutation of vegetables
into meat or fish is a province of the culinary art
which we appear to have lost; yet these are
cibi
innocentes, compared with the things themselves.
No people are such gorgers of mere animal food as
our own; the art of preparing vegetables, pulse, and
roots, is scarcely known in this country. This
cheaper and healthful food should be introduced among
the common people, who neglect them from not knowing
how to dress them. The peasant, for want of this
skill, treads under foot the best meat in the world;
and sometimes the best way of dressing it is least
costly.
The gastric art must have reached to its last perfection,
when we find that it had its history; and that they
knew how to ascertain the aera of a dish with a sort
of chronological exactness. The philosophers of
Athenaeus at table dissert on every dish, and tell
us of one called maati, that there was a treatise
composed on it; that it was first introduced at Athens,
at the epocha of the Macedonian empire, but that it
was undoubtedly a Thessalian invention; the most sumptuous
people of all the Greeks. The maati was
a term at length applied to any dainty of excessive
delicacy, always served the last.
But as no art has ever attained perfection without
numerous admirers, and as it is the public which only
can make such exquisite cooks, our curiosity may be
excited to inquire whether the patrons of the gastric
art were as great enthusiasts as its professors.