Next day, when we stopped at Cleveland, the storm was just clearing up; ascending the bluff, we had one of the finest views of the lake that could have been wished.  The varying depths of these lakes give to their surface a great variety of coloring, and beneath this wild sky and changeful light, the waters presented a kaleidoscopic variety of hues, rich, but mournful.  I admire these bluffs of red, crumbling earth.  Here land and water meet under very different auspices from those of the rock-bound coast to which I have been accustomed.  There they meet tenderly to challenge, and proudly to refuse, though, not in fact repel.  But here they meet to mingle, are always rushing together, and changing places; a new creation takes place beneath the eye.

The weather grew gradually clearer, but not bright; yet we could see the shore and appreciate the extent of these noble waters.

Coming up the river St. Clair, we saw Indians for the first time.  They were camped out on the bank.  It was twilight, and their blanketed forms, in listless groups or stealing along the bank, with a lounge and a stride so different in its wildness from the rudeness of the white settler, gave me the first feeling that I really approached the West.

The people on the boat were almost all New-Englanders, seeking their fortunes.  They had brought with them their habits of calculation, their cautious manners, their love of polemics.  It grieved me to hear these immigrants, who were to be the fathers of a new race, all, from the old man down to the little girl, talking, not of what they should do, but of what they should get in the new scene.  It was to them a prospect, not of the unfolding nobler energies, but of more ease and larger accumulation.  It wearied me, too, to hear Trinity and Unity discussed in the poor, narrow, doctrinal way on these free waters; but that will soon cease; there is not time for this clash of opinions in the West, where the clash of material interests is so noisy.  They will need the spirit of religion more than ever to guide them, but will find less time than before for its doctrine.  This change was to me, who am tired of the war of words on these subjects, and believe it only sows the wind to reap the whirlwind, refreshing, but I argue nothing from it; there is nothing real in the freedom of thought at the West,—­it is from the position of men’s lives, not the state of their minds.  So soon as they have time, unless they grow better meanwhile, they will cavil and criticise, and judge other men by their own standard, and outrage the law of love every way, just as they do with us.

We reached Mackinaw the evening of the third day, but, to my great disappointment, it was too late and too rainy to go ashore.  The beauty of the island, though seen under the most unfavorable circumstances, did not disappoint my expectations.[A] But I shall see it to more purpose on my return.