We walked about the town of Salzburg, which contains many noble edifices, but like the greater part of the ecclesiastical principalities of Germany, now presents a most dreary aspect.  The tranquil resources of that kind of government have terminated with it.  The convents also were preservers; one is struck with the number of establishments and edifices which have been erected by bachelor masters in their residence:  all these peaceable sovereigns have benefited their people.  An archbishop of Salzburg in the last century has cut a road which is prolonged for several hundred paces under a mountain, like the grotto of Pausilippo at Naples:  on the front of the entrance gate there is a bust of the archbishop, under which is an inscription:  Tesaxa loquuntur. (The stones speak of thee).  There is a degree of grandeur in this inscription.

I entered at last into that Austria, which four years before I had seen so happy; already I was struck by a sensible change, produced by the depreciation of paper-money, and the variations of every kind which the uncertainty of the financial measures had introduced into its value.  Nothing demoralizes a people so much as these continual fluctuations which make every man a broker, and hold out to the working classes a means of getting money by sharping, instead of by their labour.  I no longer found in the people the same probity which had struck me four years before:  this paper-money sets the imagination at work with the hope of rapid and easy gains; and the hazardous chances overturn the gradual and certain existence which is the basis of the honesty of the middling classes.  During my residence in Austria, a man was hanged for forging notes at the very moment when the government had reduced the value of the old ones; he called out, on his way to execution that it was not he who had robbed, but the state.  And, in truth, it is impossible to make the common people comprehend that it is just to punish them for having speculated in their own affairs, in the same way as the government had done in its own.  But this government was the ally of the French government, and doubly its ally, as its monarch was the very patient father-in-law of a very terrible son-inlaw.  What resources therefore could remain to him?  The marriage of his daughter had been the means of liberating him from two millions of contributions-at most; the rest had been required with the kind of justice of which the other is so easily capable, and which consists in treating his friends and his enemies alike:  from this proceeded the penury of the treasury.  Another misfortune also resulted from the last war, and especially from the last peace:  the inutility of the generous feeling which had illustrated the Austrian arms in the battles of Essling and Wagram, had cooled the national attachment to the sovereign, which had formerly been very strong.  The same thing has happened to all the sovereigns who have treated with the emperor Napoleon; he has made use