to the sort; cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine earth and finish the bed neatly.  As soon as possible thin the crop, but not to the full distance in the first instance.  The final spacing for main crops may be from six to nine inches, determined by the variety.  By a little management it will be an easy matter during showery weather to draw delicate young Carrots for the final thinning, and these will admirably succeed the latest of the sowings in frames and warm borders.

==Late Crops.==—­Sowings of early varieties made in July will give delicate little roots during the autumn and winter.  The rows may be placed nine inches apart, and it is essential to thin the plants early to about three inches apart in the rows.  In the event of very severe weather protect with dry litter.  For providing young Carrots throughout the winter it is also an excellent plan to broadcast seed thinly.  When grown in this way the plants afford each other protection, and the roots may be drawn immediately they are large enough.

In July the culture of the smaller sorts may also be undertaken in frames, but hot-beds may be dispensed with, and lights will not be wanted until there is a crop needing protection, when the lights may be put on, or the frames may be covered with shutters or mats.

==Storing.==—­Before autumn frosts set in the main crop should be lifted and stored in dry earth or sand, the tops being removed and the earth rubbed off, but without any attempt to clean them thoroughly until they are wanted for use.

==Carrots for Exhibition.==—­It will be found well worth while to give a little extra attention to the preparation of the ground when growing Carrots for exhibition.  As in the case of Beet and Parsnip, holes should be bored to the requisite depth and about one foot apart in the rows.  Where the soil is at all unfavourable to the growth of clean symmetrical roots the adoption of this practice will be essential to success.  Any light soil of good quality will be suitable for filling the holes.  Well firm the material in and sow about half a dozen seeds at a station, eventually thinning out to one plant at each.  The tendency of Carrots to become green at the tops in the later stages of growth, thus spoiling them for show work, may be prevented by lightly covering the protruding portion of the root with sifted fine earth.

==Destructive Enemies.==—­The Carrot maggot and the wire-worm are destructive enemies of this crop.  In a later chapter on ’The Pests of Garden Plants,’ both these foes are referred to.  Here it is only necessary to say that sound judgment as to the choice of ground, deep digging, and the preparation of the beds in good time, are the preventives of these as of many other garden plagues.  It is often observed that main crops sown early in April suffer more than those sown late, and the lesson is plain.  It has also been noticed that where the crops have suffered most severely the land was made ready in haste, and the wild birds had no time to purge it of the insects which they daily seek for food.