==Japanese Day Lily== (=Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pl.=).—­Admirably adapted for pot culture to decorate the conservatory, the rich variegation of its graceful curling leaves affording an elegant display of colour in the early months of the year, and its fine double flowers being extremely showy during their short blooming season.  As this variety is quite hardy, it may be planted in the select border with perfect safety, and, in common with other Day Lilies, it bears the shade of trees remarkably well.  This is certainly one of the handsomest hardy plants in cultivation.

==Montbretia==

Of this useful autumn-flowering bulb there are several varieties, =M. crocosmiflora= probably being the most popular.  In the warm and sheltered gardens of the South and in light well-drained soil the roots pass the winter safely.  But where frost prevails some protection, such as a small mound of litter, must be provided; the covering to be removed immediately the danger of frost is past.  The most favourable time for planting is the autumn, but during open weather the roots may be put in up to the end of March.  It is usual to plant in clumps at a depth of about three inches, allowing a distance of six inches between the corms.  As they may remain undisturbed for several years the spacing will permit them to spread and produce masses of their graceful flowers.

==Narcissus==

Narcissi and Daffodils differ from Hyacinths, Tulips, and some other bulbs in one particular which is important, because it furnishes the key to the management of these flowers.  The rootlets do not perish during the season of rest, and this fact clearly indicates that the bulbs should not remain out of ground for a day longer than is necessary.

==Culture in Pots.==—­All the Polyanthus class, and almost all the Garden varieties, thrive in pots, and can be forced with extreme ease.  Pot them early in any rich, porous compost, and put them into the soil a little deeper than is usual for Hyacinths.  For a few weeks keep them in a cool spot in the open ground under a thick covering of ashes to promote root-growth without prematurely starting the tops.  With all bulbs this is an important point, especially for such as are intended to be brought forward in heat.  When the pots are full of roots, leaf-growth will commence, and the covering should be removed.  A cool pit is then the best place for them.  The after-treatment will depend entirely on the date the flowers are wanted.  A low temperature, long continued, means late flowering, so that within reasonable limits the grower can control the time of their appearance.  For the earliest display select the Roman and Paper White, which are naturally early-blooming varieties.  After a few days in a cool pit, transfer to the greenhouse, and about a week or ten days before they are needed in flower plunge them in a brisk bottom heat, and give plenty of water of the proper temperature.  The forcing should not begin until the plants are sufficiently advanced, or it will injure the flowers in both size and colour.  Weak manure water will be beneficial occasionally, but when the blossoms begin to open this must be discontinued, and at the same time the heat should be diminished.