be in the way of dripping water.  A little later, room should be found for them upon the stage, or the foliage may become drawn.  When the buds are visible, plunge the pots in a bottom heat of 65 deg. or 70 deg., and in a week the flowers will be fit for use.  Like its more imposing prototype, the Roman Hyacinth may have its roots gently freed from soil for packing in bowls or vases filled with wet moss or sand; but they ought not to be subjected to a violent change of temperature.  If wanted in glasses, they can be grown in water after the usual fashion, but the flower is scarcely adapted for this mode of treatment.  They will, however, grow well in bowls filled with moss-fibre.

==Italian Hyacinth.==—­Although rather later in flowering than the Roman variety, the Italian Hyacinth deserves to be grown as a pot plant, especially for its more lasting quality.  The graceful flowers are carried on long stout stems which are most effective for the decoration of vases.  The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and may be planted in clumps in the open border, where they will bloom in April and afford abundant sprays for cutting.  The habit is less formal than that of the Dutch Hyacinth and the flowers exhale a sweet delicate perfume.  As previously stated, the Italian Hyacinth is especially suitable for growing in moss-fibre.

==Hyacinthus candicans==

An excellent companion to Delphiniums, Salvias, and perennial Lobelias in the mixed border.  The stately spikes of this flower also associate well with shrubs, and help to enliven a bed of Rhododendrons at a period of the year when the latter is uninteresting.  Roots may be planted in any soil from November to March; and, as they are perfectly hardy, they can be left in the open ground all the year without the least misgiving as to their safety.  A strong root will produce a succession of flower-spikes, and this tendency will be assisted by cutting off each spike immediately it has ceased to be attractive.

==Iris==

The common varieties of Iris are well-known favourites of the border, and the whole family have claims on the attention of amateurs, on account of their excellent faculty of taking care of themselves if properly planted in the first instance.  The tuberous or bulbous rooted kinds do not require a rich soil; a sandy loam suits them, and they thrive in peat.  Such beautiful species as Reticulata, the Chalcedonian, and the Peacock are worth growing in pots placed in frames or in a cool greenhouse.  The English, Dutch, and Spanish varieties should be planted in clumps in front of a shrubbery border, where they may be seen to advantage.  The crown of the bulb must not be more than three inches below the surface.  From September to December will answer for planting, and the roots may be taken up when the flowering period is over, or if the space is not wanted they can be allowed to remain for the following season.  Bulbs of the English class should never be kept out of the ground longer than can be helped, but they ought not to be grown in one spot for more than three years; after that time the clumps must be divided and a fresh position found for them.