The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 669 pages of information about The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots.

The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 669 pages of information about The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots.
=Saponaria calabrica,= exquisite rosy pink; Silene, rose, dwarf rose, and dwarf white; Virginian Stock, of which the distinct varieties are remarkably well adapted to form bands and masses of red, white, and yellow, and also to make a delightful groundwork for enhancing the splendour of late Tulips; and clumps of Aubrietia, Yellow Alyssum, and other of the more distinctive plants that are employed in high colouring in first-class geometric gardening.  A list of such plants will at once indicate that there is a field of enterprise for the practitioner of spring flower gardening; and while cheap and effective materials are thus brought into the service, there is no interference with the later summer bedding, because, if the annuals are well managed, they will give their plentiful bloom when the garden is most in need of colour, and may be cleared off in time to make way for the plants that are generally employed in the summer display and which are known as ’ bedding plants’ =par excellence=.

In the management of annuals for an early bloom, it is of great importance to sow them at a proper time, so that they will be strong enough to perform what is required of them, and yet not so forward (or ‘winter proud’) as to suffer from the severity of the weather.  In the North the middle of August is none too early for a general sowing in beds, and in the South the middle of September is none too late.  In some few sheltered spots in the extreme South-West seed may be got in at the middle of October.  As a rule, however, the sowing should be made as late as those familiar with the soil and climate of the place may deem safe, the main point being to have the seedlings in a short-jointed condition, close to the ground, in which state they are least likely to be injured by frosts.  We prefer sowing in drills on a rather poor soil well broken up to a kindly state, and if the weather happens to be dry, the drills should be freely watered before the seed is sown, and there will be no more watering needed.  The after-management is extremely simple:  the plants must be kept clear of weeds, and be slightly thinned out if much crowded, for a few sturdy specimens are of more value than any number that have run up weak and wiry through overcrowding.

In sheltered gardens, having dry chalk or sandy soils, the greater part, or perhaps the whole stock, might be transplanted from the seed-beds to the flower-beds and borders as soon as sufficient growth has been made; but on heavy soils and in exposed places it will be advisable to delay the removal until March.  This part of the work must be nicely done, the plants being lifted in clumps and no attempt made to single them, and they must be carefully pressed in and aided with water, if necessary, to promote a quick ‘taking hold’ of their new quarters.  Those planted out in October on a dry soil will not only bloom early and gaily, but will be beautiful in their different tints of green all the winter through.

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The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.