==Geum==

==Hardy perennial==

The introduction of the well-known double variety, Mrs. Bradshaw, which may easily be flowered from seed in the first season, has brought the Geum into prominence in recent years.  Seed of the above-named variety should be sown in pans in March or April and the seedlings pricked off into boxes of rich soil when large enough.  Put out in May or June and do not let the plants suffer for want of water.  Geums may also be raised from sowings made in June or July, and transplanting in due course to permanent quarters, in the manner usual with hardy perennials.

==Gladiolus==

==Corn Flag.  Half-hardy perennial==

Formerly the Gladiolus was seldom raised from seed, probably because the seed obtainable was not worth sowing.  Now it is saved with so much care that it will give a splendid display of flowers, a large proportion of which will be equal to named sorts, and some may show a decided advance.

The use of large pots—­the 32-size will answer—­is advantageous for many reasons, and they should be either new or scrupulously clean, for they will have to remain unchanged for many months, so that a fair start is the more necessary.  For the same reason special care should be taken to insure free drainage.  Over the usual crocks place a layer of dry moss, and fill with a compost of fibrous loam and leaf-mould in equal parts, with sufficient sharp sand added to make it thoroughly porous.  Press the soil firmly into the pots, making the surface quite even, and in February dibble the seeds separately about an inch apart, and half an inch deep.  This will render it needless to disturb the seedlings during the first season.  Put the seed-pots in a steady temperature not exceeding 65 deg. or 70 deg..  After watering, it will help to retain the moisture if the top of each pot is covered with a layer of =old= moss, until the plants show.  When the seedlings are about an inch high remove to a lower temperature, and begin to harden off by giving air on suitable occasions.  Take care, however, that in the process no check is given to growth.  Soon after the middle of May the seedlings should be able to bear full exposure, and it will then be time to renew the surface soil.  Gently remove the upper layer, and replace it with rotten cow-manure, or some other rich dressing.  Water must be given regularly until about midsummer, when the pots may be plunged to the rim in a shady border, and this will keep them tolerably moist until, in September, the seedlings begin to ripen off, which they must be allowed to do.  When the leaves have died down, shake out the bulbs and place them on a shelf to dry.  A mixture of equal parts of peat and pine sawdust, placed in a box or seed-pan, will make the best possible store for them; the box or seed-pan to be kept in any spot which is safe from heat and frost.  After about six weeks, each bulb should be examined, and decayed specimens removed.  If any of them have commenced growing, pot them and place in a pit or greenhouse.  In March take the bulbs out of store, pot each one singly, and prepare for planting out.  The transfer to the open must not be made until the danger of frost is past, even though it be necessary to wait until the first week of June.