==Celosia plumosa==

==Plumed Cockscomb.  Greenhouse annual==

The conditions which suit a liberally grown Cockscomb will produce long graceful plumes of =Celosia plumosa=, but the starving system will not answer with this plant.  Sow in February or March, and by means of a steady heat, regular attention with water, and a rather moist atmosphere, the specimens should be grown without a check from beginning to end.  When they reach the final pots an occasional dose of weak manure water will help them, both in size and colour, but it must be discontinued when the flowers begin to show their beauty.  As a rule it will be found more easy to manage this plant on a moderate-sized hot-bed than in a greenhouse.  Repotting should always be done in time to prevent the roots from growing through the bottom of the pots.

==Celosia cristata—­see Cockscomb, =page= 254==

==Chrysanthemum==

==Hardy perennial and hardy annual==

The tedious method of propagating Begonias, Gloxinias, and Primulas by cuttings or layers has been replaced by the simpler and more satisfactory procedure of sowing seeds, which insures all the finest flowers in far greater variety than were obtained under the obsolete treatment.  A similar revolution is now proceeding in the culture of Chrysanthemums.  Many growers are relying entirely on seedlings raised from sowings early in the year for their autumn display.  The culture of =C. indicum= from seed is as simple as that of Primulas or Stocks, and the variety and delicate charm of the seedlings far surpass the formal plants of years ago.  Gardeners who require large numbers for decorative purposes may use seedling Chrysanthemums with excellent effect.

Seed should be sown in January or February, using a compost consisting of two parts leaf-soil to one part of loam.  Place the pots or pans in a temperature of 65 deg. to 70 deg..  As soon as the seedlings appear they should be moved to a somewhat lower temperature—­about 55 deg. to 60 deg..  When the young plants are large enough to handle, prick off into trays at about three inches apart, using a little more loam in the soil.  The most convenient size for the purpose is fifteen inches long by nine inches wide and three inches deep.  These trays produce a quicker root action than pots.  After growth has started, place them in cold frames.  Immediately the plants have made five or six leaves transfer singly to three-inch pots, and when nicely rooted they may be stopped once.  About June shift into six-inch pots, adding a small quantity of coarse silver sand to the potting soil.  Ten days later place them out of doors on a bed of ashes.  Towards the end of July transfer to 9-1/2 inch pots for flowering, using soil of the composition already advised.  Keep them standing on ashes or boards, if possible at the north side of a hedge or house.  When thoroughly rooted a little manure water may be given once a week.  In October stand the plants in a cool house, and in the first week of November move them to flowering quarters, keeping the temperature from 55 deg. to 60 deg..