==Melon==.—­It is not too late to grow Melons in frames, provided a start can be made with strong plants.

==Pea==.—­Sow Peas again if there is any prospect of a break in the supply.  It is a good plan to prepare trenches as for Celery, but less deep, and sow Peas in them, as the trenches can be quickly filled with water in case of dry weather, and the vigorous growth will be proof against mildew.

==Savoy== sown now will produce small useful hearts for winter use.  By many these small hearts will be preferred to large ones, as more delicate, and therefore a sowing of Tom Thumb may be advised.

==Spinach, New Zealand==, can be sown in the open ground in the early part of this month and should be thinned to about a yard apart.  The growth somewhat resembles that of the Ice Plant.  The tender young tops are pinched off for cooking, and they make an elegant Spinach, which is free from bitterness, and is therefore acceptable to many persons who object to the sooty flavour of ordinary Spinach.

==Tomato==.—­By the third week in May the plants for the open border should be hardened.  In a cold pit or frame they may be gradually exposed until the lights can be left off altogether, even at night.  A thick layer of ashes at the bottom of the frame will insure drainage and keep off vermin.  If the plants are allowed plenty of space, and are well managed, they will possess dark, healthy foliage, needing no support from sticks until they are in final quarters.  Do not put them out before the end of the month or the beginning of June, and choose a quiet day for the work.  If possible, give them a sunny spot under the shelter of a wall having a southern or western aspect.  On a stiff soil it is advisable to plant on ridges, and not too deeply; for deep planting encourages strong growth, and strong growth defers the production of fruit.  Tomatoes are sometimes grown in beds, and then it is necessary to give them abundant room.  For branched plants three feet between the plants in the rows, and the rows four feet apart, will afford space for tying and watering.  Each plant should have the support of a stout stake firmly fixed in the soil, and rising four feet above it; and once a week at least the tying should be attended to.  As to stopping, the centre stem should be allowed to grow until the early flowers have set.  It is from these early flowers that outdoor Tomatoes can be successfully ripened, and the removal of the main shoot delays their production.  But after fifteen or twenty fruits are visible the top of the leading stem may be shortened to the length of the stake.  The fruiting branches should also be kept short beyond the fruit, and large leaves must be shortened to allow free access of sunshine.  Should the single-stem system be adopted, three feet between the rows and two feet between plants in the rows will suffice.  On a light soil and in dry weather weak liquid manure may, with advantage, be alternated with pure water, but this practice must not be carried far enough to make the plants gross, or ripening will be delayed.  Fruit intended for exhibition must be selected with judgment, and with this end in view four to six specimens of any large variety will be sufficient for one plant to bring to perfection.