of the British Museum were unanimous both in their admiration and recommendation of it:  it was indeed “strongly recommended” by them to the Treasury.  Several months however elapsed before an answer could be obtained; and that answer, when it did come, was returned in THE NEGATIVE.  The disappointment of reasonably indulged hopes of success, was the least thing felt by its owner.  It was the necessity of transporting it, in consequence, to enrich a rival capital—­which, were its means equal to its wishes and good taste, it must be confessed, makes us frequently blush for the comparative want of energy and liberality, at home, in matters relating to ANCIENT ART.]

[90] Mr. Cotman has a view of the gateway of Tancarville, or Montmorenci
    Castle.

[91] I am not sure whether this inn be called the Armes de France,
    or as above.

LETTER XI

HAVRE DE GRACE.  HONFLEUR.  JOURNEY TO CAEN.

Caen, May, 1818.

Well, my friend!...  I have at length visited the interior of the Abbey of St. Stephen, and have walked over the grave of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR and of MATHILDA his wife.  But as you dearly love the gossip of a travelling journal, I shall take up the thread of my narrative from the place in which I last addressed you:—­particularly as our route hither was marked by some circumstances worthy of recital.  First, however, for Havre.

I staid there only long enough to express my regret that the time of my residence could not be extended.  It happened to be a fine afternoon, and I took a leisurely stroll upon the docks and ramparts.[92] The town was full of animation—­whether relating to business or to pleasure.  For the former, you must visit the quays; for the latter, you must promenade the high street, and more especially the Boulevards, towards the heights.  The sun shone merrily, as it were, upon the thousands of busy, bustling, and bawling human creatures.. who were in constant locomotion in this latter place.

What a difference between the respective appearances of the quays of Dieppe and Havre?  Although even here things would assume a rubbishing and littered aspect compared with the quays at Liverpool or at Hull, yet it must be admitted, for the credit of Gallico-Norman commerce, that the quays of Havre make a very respectable appearance.  You see men fiddling, dancing, sleeping, sitting, and of course talking a pleine gorge, in groups without end—­but no drunkenness!.. not even an English oath saluted my ear.  The Southampton packets land their crews at Havre.  I saw the arrival of one of these packets; and was cruel enough to contrast the animated and elastic spirits of a host of French laqnais de place, tradespeople, &c.—­attacking the passengers with cards of their address—­with the feeble movements and dejected countenances of the objects of their attack.