The cabriolet meeting me at the bottom of the mound upon which the castle is built, (having paid the reckoning before I left the inn), I had nothing to do but to step in, and push forward for Havre.  Retracing the road through which we came, we darted into the Route Royale, and got upon one of the noblest high roads in France.  Between Tancarville and Havre lie Hocher and Harfleur; each almost at the water’s edge.  I regretted I could not see the former; but on our approach to Harfleur I observed, to the right, some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly built, country villas or modern chateaux.  The immediate run down to Harfleur is exceedingly pleasing; and though we trotted sharply through the town, the exquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon me.  Few places, I believe, for its dimensions, have been more celebrated in the middle ages than Harfleur.  The Seine to the left becomes broader and bolder; and, before you, beneath some wooded heights, lies HAVRE.  Every thing gives indication of commerce and prosperity as you gain upon the town.  The houses increase in number and respectability of appearance—­“Voyez-vous la, Monsieur, a droite, ces belles maisons de plaisance?—­(exclaimed the charioteer)—­“C’est la ou demeurent Messieurs vos compatriotes:  ma foi, ils ont un joli gout.”  The first glance upon these stone houses confirmed the sagacity of the postilion.  They are gloriously situated—­facing the ocean; while the surrounding country teems with fish and game of every species.  Isaac Walton might have contrived to interweave a pretty ballad in his description of such trout-streams as were those before us.

But we approach the town.  The hulls of hundreds of vessels are seen in the commodious docks; and the flags of merchantmen, from all quarters of the globe, appear to stream from the mast-heads.  It is a scene of bustle, of business, and variety; and perfectly English.  What a contrast to the gloomy solitude of Montmorenci!  The outer and inner gates are passed. Diligences issue from every quarter.  The centinels relieve guard.  The sound of horns, from various packet-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on all sides....  Driving up the high street, we approached the hotel of the Aigle d’Or,[91] kept by Justin, and considered to be the best.  We were just in time for the table d’hote, and to bespeak excellent beds.  Travellers were continually arriving and departing.  What life and animation!...  We sat down upwards of forty to dinner:  and a good dinner it was.  Afterwards, I settled for the cabriolet, and bade the postboy adieu!—­nor can I suppress my feelings in saying that, in wishing him farewell, I felt ten times more than I had ever felt upon taking leave of a postilion.

[85] The nave was begun in 1416.  LICQUET.

[86] Corrected by Mons. Licquet:  with thanks from the Author.  It was,
    before, 1184.