moment recollect whether it be also dignified, in its course, by turning a few corn mills, ere it empties itself into the Seine.  Indeed the thundering noise of one of these mills, turned by the Robec river, near the church of St. Maclou, will not be easily forgotten.  Thus you see of what various, strange, and striking objects the city of Rouen is composed.  Bustle, noise, life and activity, in the midst of an atmosphere unsullied by the fumes of sea coal:—­hilarity and apparent contentment:—­the spruce bourgeoise and the slattern fille de chambre:—­attired in vestments of deep crimson and dark blue—­every thing flits before you as if touched by magic, and as if sorrow and misfortune were unknown to the inhabitants.

“Paullo majora canamus.”  In other words, let us leave the Town for the Country.  Let us hurry through a few more narrow and crowded alleys, courts, and streets—­and as the morning is yet beautiful, let us hasten onwards to enjoy the famous Panorama of Rouen and its environs from the MONT STE. CATHARINE....  Indeed, my friend, I sincerely wish that you could have accompanied me to the summit of this enchanting eminence:  but as you are far away, you must be content with a brief description of our little expedition thither.[68] The Mont Ste. Catharine, which is entirely chalk, is considered the highest of the hills in the immediate vicinity of Rouen; or rather, perhaps, is considered the point of elevation from which the city is to be viewed to the greatest possible advantage.  It lies to the left of the Seine, in your way from the town; and the ascent begins considerably beyond the barriers.  Indeed it is on the route to Paris.  We took an excellent fiacre to carry us to the beginning of the ascent, that our legs might be in proper order for scrambling up the acclivities immediately above; and leaving the main road to the right, we soon commenced our ambulatory operations in good earnest.  But there was not much labour or much difficulty:  so, halting, or standing, or sitting, on each little eminence, our admiration seemed to encrease—­till, gaining the highest point, looking towards the west, we found ourselves immediately above the town and the whole of its environs....

    “Heavens, what a goodly prospect spread around!”

The prospect was indeed “goodly—­” being varied, extensive, fertile, and luxuriant ... in spite of a comparatively backward spring.  The city was the main object, not only of attraction, but of astonishment.  Although the point from which we viewed it is considered to be exactly on a level with the summit of the spire of the Cathedral, yet we seemed to be hanging, as it were, in the air, immediately over the streets themselves.  We saw each church, each public edifice, and almost each street; nay, we began to think we could discover almost every individual stirring in them.  The soldiers, exercising on the parade in the Champ de Mars, seemed to be scarcely two stones’ throw from us; while