famous Cardinal d’Amboise, and partly by Francis I. This building precisely marks the restoration of Gothic taste in France, and the peculiar style of architecture which prevailed in the reign of Francis I. To say the truth, this style, however sparkling and imposing, is objectionable in many respects:  for it is, in the first place, neither pure Gothic nor pure Grecian—­but an injudicious mixture of both.  Greek arabesque borders are running up the sides of a portal terminating in a Gothic arch; and the Gothic ornaments themselves are not in the purest, or the most pleasing, taste.  Too much is given to parts, and too little to the whole.  The external ornaments are frequently heavy, from their size and elaborate execution; and they seem to be stuck on to the main building without rhyme or reason.

The criminal offences are tried in the hall to the right, and the prisoners are confined in the lower part of the building to the left:  above which you mount by a flight of stone steps, which conducts you to a singularly curious hall,[65] about one hundred and seventy-five English feet in length—­roofed by wooden ribs, in the form of an arch, and displaying a most curious and exact specimen of carpenter’s work.  This is justly shewn and commented upon to the enquiring traveller.  Parts of the building are devoted to the courts of assize, and to tribunals of audience of almost every description.  The first Presidents of the Parliament lived formerly in the building which faces you upon entrance, but matters have now taken a very different turn.  Upon the whole, this Town Hall, or call it what you will, is rather a magnificent structure; and certainly superior to most provincial buildings of the kind which we possess in England.  I should tell you that the courts for commercial causes are situated near the quays, at the south part of the town:  and Monsieur Riaux, who conducted me thither, (and who possesses the choicest library[66] of antiquarian books, of all descriptions, relating to Rouen, which I had the good fortune to see) carried me to the Hall of Commerce, which, among other apartments, contains a large chamber (contiguous to the Court of Justice) covered with fleurs de lys upon a light blue ground.  It is now however much in need of reparation.  Fresh lilies and a new ground are absolutely necessary to harmonise with a large oil-painting at one end of it, in which is represented the reception of Louis XVI. at Rouen by the Mayor and Deputies of the town, in 1786.  All the figures are of the size of life, well painted after the originals, and appear to be strong resemblances.  On enquiring how many of them were now living, I was told that—­ALL WERE DEAD!  The fate of the principal figure is but too well known.  They should have this interesting subject—­interesting undoubtedly to the inhabitants—­executed by one of their best engravers.  It represents the unfortunate Louis quite in the prime of life; and is the best whole length portrait of him which I have yet seen in painting or in engraving.