What curiosity, and even agony of mind, mingled with
the tumults of indignation, the shouts of revenge,
and the exclamations of pity! But life now goes
on just the same as if nothing of the kind had happened
here. The past is forgotten. This hapless
Joan of Arc is one of the many, who, having been tortured
as heretics, have been afterwards reverenced as martyrs.
Her statue was, not very long after her execution,
almost adored upon that very spot where her
body had been consigned with execrations to the flames.
The square, in which this statue stands, contains
probably one of the very oldest houses in Rouen—and
as interesting as it is ancient. It is invisible
from without: but you open a wooden gate, and
quickly find yourself within a small quadrangle, having
three of its sides covered with basso-rilievo figures
in plaster. That side which faces you is evidently
older than the left: indeed I have no hesitation
in assigning it to the end of the XVth century.
The clustered ornaments of human figures and cattle,
with which the whole of the exterior is covered, reminds
us precisely of those numerous little wood-cut figures,
chiefly pastoral, which we see in the borders of printed
missals of the same period. The taste which prevails
in them is half French and half Flemish. Not
so is the character of the plaster figures which cover
the left side on entering. These, my friend,
are no less than the representation of the procession
of Henry VIII. and Francis I. to the famous CHAMP
DE DRAP D’OR: of which Montfaucon[63] has
published engravings. Having carefully examined
this very curious relic, of the beginning of the sixteenth
century, I have no hesitation in pronouncing the copy
of Montfaucon (or rather of the artist employed by
him) to be most egregiously faithless. I visited
it again and again, considering it to be worth all
the “huge clocks” in Rouen put together.
I hardly know how to take you from this interesting
spot—from this exhibition of beautiful old
art—especially too when I consider that
Francis himself once occupied the mansion, and held
a Council here, with both English and French; that
his bugles once sounded from beneath the gate way,
and that his goblets once sparkled upon the chestnut
tables of the great hall. I do hope and trust
that the Royal Academy of Rouen, will not suffer this
architectural relic to perish, without leaving behind
a substantial and faithful representation of it.[64]
While upon the subject of ancient edifices, let me return; and, crossing the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, contrive to place you in the centre of the square which is formed by the PALAIS DE JUSTICE. The inhabitants consider this building as the principal lion in their city. It has indeed claims to notice and admiration, but will not bear the severe scrutiny of a critic in Gothic architecture. It was partly erected by Louis XII. at the entreaty of the provincial States, through the interest of the