At this early season of the year, much company is assembled every evening in these walks:  while, in front of the abbey, or in the square facing the western end, the national guard is exercised in the day time—­and troops of fair nymphs and willing youths mingle in the dance on a sabbath evening, while a platform is erected for the instrumental performers, and for the exhibition of feats of legerdemain.  You must not take leave of St. Ouen without being told that, formerly, the French Kings used occasionally to “make revel” within the Abbot’s house.  Henry II, Charles IX, and Henry III, each took a fancy to this spot—­but especially the famous HENRI QUATRE.  It is reported that that monarch sojourned here for four months—–­ and his reply to the address of the aldermen and sheriff of Rouen is yet preserved both in MS. and by engravings.  “The King having arrived at St. Ouen (says an old MS.)[56] the keys of the tower were presented to him, in the presence of M. de Montpensier, the governor of the province, upon a velvet-cushion.  The keys were gilt.  The King took them, and replacing them in the hands of the governor, said—­“Mon cousin, je vous les baille pour les rendre, qu’ils les gardent;”—­then, addressing the aldermen, he added, “Soyez moi bons sujets et je vous serai bon Roi, et le meilleur Roi que vous ayez jamais eu.”

Next to the Abbey of St. Ouen, “go by all means and see the church St. Maclou”—­say your friends and your guides.  The Abbe Turquier accompanied me thither.  The great beauties of St. Maclou are its tower and its porch.  Of the tower, little more than the lantern remains.  This is about 160 English feet in height.  Above it was a belfry or steeple, another 110 feet in height, constructed of wood and lead—­but which has been nearly destroyed for the sake of the lead,—­for the purpose of slaughter or resistance during the late revolution.[57] The exteriors of the porches are remarkable for their elaborate ornaments; especially those in the Rue Martainville. They are highly praised by the inhabitants, and are supposed to be after the models of the famous Goujon.  Perhaps they are rather encumbered with ornament, and want that quiet effect, and pure good taste, which we see in the porches of the Cathedral and of the Abbey St. Ouen.  However, let critics determine as they will upon this point—­they must at least unite in reprobating the barbarous edict which doomed these delicate pieces of sculptured art to be deluged with an over-whelming tint of staring yellow ochre!

Of the remaining churches, I shall mention only four:  two of them chiefly remarkable for their interior, and two for their extreme antiquity.  Of the two former, that of St. Vincent presents you with a noble organ, with a light choir profusely gilded, and (rarer accompaniment!) in very excellent taste.  But the stained glass is the chief magnet of attraction.  It is rich, varied, and vivid to a degree; and, upon the whole, is the finest specimen of this species