vicinities are these compared with that of Mont Martre?  And if you take river scenery into the account, what is the Seine, in the neighbourhood of Paris, compared with the Thames in that of London?  If the almost impenetrable smoke and filth from coal-fires were charmed away—­shew me, I beseech you, any view of Paris, from this, or from any point of approach, which shall presume to bear the semblance of comparison with that of London, from the descent from Shooter’s Hill!  The most bewitched Frenchified-Englishman, in the perfect possession of his eye sight, will not have the temerity to institute such a comparison.  But as you near the barriers, your admiration increases.  Having got rid of all background of country—­as you approach the capital—­the foregoing objections vanish.  Here the officers of police affected to search our luggage.  They were heartily welcome, and so I told them.  This disarmed all suspicion.  Accordingly we entered Paris by one of the noblest and one of the most celebrated of its Boulevards—­the Champs Elysees.  As we gained the Place Louis Quinze, with the Thuileries in front, with the Hotel des Invalides (the gilded dome of which latter reflected the strong rays of a setting sun) to the right—­we were much struck with this combination of architectural splendour:  indisputably much superior to any similar display on the entrance into our own capital.[174] Turning to the left, the Place Vendome and the Rue de la Paix, with the extreme height of the houses, and the stone materials of their construction, completed our admiration.  But the Boulevards Italiens—­after passing the pillars of the proposed church of Ste. Madelaine, and turning to the right—­helped to prolong our extreme gratification, till we reached the spot whence I am addressing you.  Doubtless, at first glance, this is a most splendid and enchanting city.  A particular detail must be necessarily reserved, for the next despatch.  I shall take all possible pains to make you acquainted with the treasures of PAST TIMES—­in the shape of Manuscripts and printed Books.  THE ROYAL LIBRARY has as much astonished me, as the CURATORS of it have charmed me by their extreme kindness and civility.[175]

[174] [The above was written in 1818-19.  Now, what would be said by a
    foreigner, of his first drive from Westminster Bridge, through Regent
    Street to the stupendous Pantheon facing the termination of Portland
    Place?]

[175] At this point, the labours of Mons. LICQUET, as my translator, cease;
    and I will let him take leave of his task of translation in his own
    words.  “Ici se termine la tache qui m’a ete confiee.  Apres avoir
    refute franchement tout ce qui m’a semble digne de letre, je crois
    devoir declarer, en finissant, que mes observations n’ont jamais eu
    la personne pour objet.  Je reste persuade, d’ailleurs, que le coeur