Upon the whole, the church of the Holy Trinity is rather a fine and capacious, than a venerable edifice; and although I cannot conscientiously approve of the beautifying and repairing which are going on therein, yet I will do the planner the justice to say, that a more gentlemanly, liberally-minded, and truly amiable clergyman is perhaps no where to be found,—­within or without the diocese to which he belongs.  Attached to the north transept or side door, parallel with the street, is a long pole.  “What might this mean?” “Sir, this pole was crowned at the top by a garland, and by the white flag of St. Louis,[169]—­which were hoisted to receive me on my return from my long expatriation”—­and the eyes of the narrator were suffused with tears, as he made the answer!  It is of no consequence how small the income of an unmarried minister, may be, when he thus lives so entirely in the HEARTS OF HIS FLOCK.  This church bears abundant evidence, within and without, of what is called the restoration of the Gothic order during the reign of Francis I.:  although the most essential and the greater portion is evidently of the latter part of the fourteenth century.[170] Having expressed my admiration of the manufacture of wax candles (for religious purposes) which I had frequently observed in the town, Monsieur Mouton, upon taking me into the sacristy (similar to our vestry-room) begged I would do him the honour to accept of any which might be lying upon the table.  These candles are made of the purest white wax:  of a spiral, or twisted, or square, or circular form; of considerable length and width.  They are also decorated with fillagree work, and tinsel of various colours.  Upon that which I chose, there were little rosettes made of wax.  The moderate sum for which they are obtained, startles an Englishman who thinks of the high price of this article of trade in his own country.  You see frequently, against the walls and pillars of the choir, fragments of these larger wax candles, guttering down and begrimed from the uses made of them in time of worship.  In this sacristy there were two little boys swinging wooden censers, by way of practice for the more perfect use of them, when charged with frankincense, at the altar.  To manage these adroitly—­as the traveller is in the constant habit of observing during divine worship—­is a matter of no very quick or easy attainment.

From the Cure we proceed to the Comte DE LA FRESNAYE; whose pleasantly situated mansion had been pointed out to me, as you may remember, by the former.  Passing over one of the bridges, leading towards Guibray, and ascending a gentle eminence to the left, I approached the outer lodge of this large and respectable-looking mansion.  The Count and family were at dinner:  but at three they would rise from table.  “Meanwhile,” said the porter, it might give me pleasure to walk in the garden.”  It was one of the loveliest days imaginable.  Such a sky—­blue, bright, and cloudless—­I