As I ascended this central tower, I digressed occasionally into the lateral galleries along the aisles.  To look down, was somewhat terrific; but who could help bewailing the wretched, rotten, green-tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle?—­which arose here, as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of the lead (during the Revolution) to make bullets—­and from the rain’s penetrating the interior in consequence.  As I continued to ascend, I looked through the apertures to notice the fine formation and almost magical erection of the lancet windows of the western towers:  and the higher I mounted, the more beautiful and magical seemed to be that portion of the building.  At length I reached the summit; and concentrating myself a little, gazed around.

The view was lovely beyond measure.  Coutances lies within four miles of the sea, so that to the west and south there appeared an immense expanse of ocean.  On the opposite points was an extensive landscape, well-wooded, undulating, rich, and thickly studded with farm-houses. Jersey appeared to the north-west, quite encircled by the sea; and nearly to the south, stood out the bold insulated little rock of Granville, defying the eternal washing of the wave.  Such a view is perhaps no where else to be seen in Normandy; certainly not from any ecclesiastical edifice with which I am acquainted.  The sun was now declining apace, which gave a wanner glow to the ocean, and a richer hue to the landscape.  It is impossible to particularize.  All was exquisitely refreshing and joyous.  The heart beats with a fuller pulsation as the eye darts over such an expansive and exhilarating scene!  Spring was now clad in her deepest-coloured vesture:  and a prospect of a fine summer and an abundant harvest infused additional delight into the beholder.  Immediately below, stood the insulated and respectable mansion or Palace of the Bishop; in the midst of a formal garden—­begirt with yet more formally clipt hedges.  As the Prelate bore a good character, I took a pleasure in gazing upon the roof which contained an inhabitant capable of administering so much good to the community.  In short, I shall always remember the view from the top of the central tower of the cathedral of Coutances!

I quitted such a spot with reluctance; but time was flying away, and the patience of the cuisinier at the Hotel d’Angleterre had already been put somewhat to the test.  In twenty minutes I sat down to my dinner, in a bed-room, of which the furniture was chiefly of green silk.  The females, even in the humblest walks, have generally fine names; and Victorina was that of the fille de chambre at the Hotel d’Angleterre.  After dinner I walked upon what may be called the heights of Coutances; and a more delightful evening’s walk I never enjoyed.  The women of every description—­ladies, housekeepers, and servant maids—­were all abroad; either sitting upon benches, or standing in gossiping groups, or straying in friendly pairs.  The comeliness of the women was remarkable; a certain freshness of tint, and prevalence of the embonpoint, reminded me of those of our own country; and among the latter, I startled—­as I gazed upon a countenance which afforded but too vivid a resemblance to that of a deceased relation!  Certainly the Norman women are no where more comely and interesting than they are at Coutances.