We entered the town at a sharp trot.  The postilion, flourishing his whip, and causing its sound to re-echo through the principal street, upon an ascent, drove to the chief inn, the Hotel d’Angleterre, within about one hundred yards of the cathedral.  Vespers were just over; and I shall not readily forget the rush and swarm of the clergy who were pouring out, from the north door, and covering the street with one extensive black mass.  There could not have been fewer than two hundred young Ecclesiastics—­thus returning from vespers to their respective homes; or rather to the College, or great clerical establishment, in the neighbourhood.  This College, which has suffered from violence and neglect, through the revolution and Bonaparte’s dynasty, is now beginning to raise its head in a very distinguished and commanding manner.  It was a singular sight—­to see such a crowd of young men, wearing cocked hats, black robes, and black bands with white edging!  The women were all out in the streets; sitting before their doors, or quietly lounging or walking.  The afternoon was indeed unusually serene.

I ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathedral.  It was impossible to visit it at a more favorable moment.  The congregation had departed; and a fine warm sun darted its rays in every surrounding direction.  As I looked around, I could not fail to be struck with the singular arrangement of the columns round the choir:  or rather of the double aisle between the choir and the walls, as at St. Lo; but here yet more distinctly marked.  For a wonder, an unpainted Virgin and child in Our Lady’s chapel, behind the choir!  There is nothing, I think, in the interior of this church that merits particular notice and commendation, except it be some beautifully-stained glass windows; with the arms, however, of certain noble families, and the regal arms (as at Bayeux) obliterated.  There is a deep well in the north transept, to supply the town with water in case of fire.  The pulpit is large and handsome; but not so magnificent as that at Bayeux.  The organ is comparatively small.  Perhaps the thirteenth century is a period sufficiently remote to assign for the completion of the interior of this church, for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis of the Abbe de la Rue, that this edifice was probably erected by Tancred King of Sicily at the end of the eleventh, or at the beginning of the twelfth century.

The exterior of this Church is indeed its chief attraction.[155] Unquestionably the style of architecture is very peculiar, and does not, as far as I know, extend beyond St. Lo, in Normandy.  My great object was to mount upon the roof of the central tower, which is octagonal, containing fine lofty lancet windows, and commanding from its summit a magnificent panorama.  Another story, one half the height of the present erection from the roof of the nave, would put a glorious finish to the central tower of NOTRE DAME at COUTANCES.