As I advanced towards the choir, I took especial notice of the very singular, and in my opinion very ugly, formation both of the pillars and arches which sustain the roof.  These pillars have no capitals, and the arch springs from them in the most abrupt manner.  The arch itself is also very short and sharp pointed; like the tops of lancet windows.  This mode obtains pretty generally here; but it should be noted that, in the right side aisle, the pillars have capitals.  There is something unusual also in the row of pillars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way between the walls of the choir and the outward wall of the church.  Nor am I sure that, destitute of a graceful, superadded arch, such massive perpendicular lines have either meaning or effect.  Whether St. Lo were the first church upon which the architect, who built both that and the cathedral at Coutances, tried his talents—­or whether, indeed, both churches be the effort of the same hand—­I cannot pretend to determine; but, both outwardly and inwardly, these two churches have a strong resemblance to each other.  Like many other similar buildings in France, the church of St. Lo is closely blocked up by surrounding houses.

I prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, after agreeing for a large heavy machine, with a stout pair of horses, to conduct me to this place.  There are some curious old houses near the inn, with exterior ornaments like those of the XVIth century, in our own country.  But on quitting the town, in the road to Coutances,—­after you come to what are called the old castle walls, on passing the outer gate—­your eye is struck by rather an extraordinary combination of objects.  The town itself seems to be built upon a rock.  Above, below, every thing appears like huge scales of iron; while, at the bottom, in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful and fruitful river Aure.[154] The country immediately around abounds in verdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights.  Upon the whole, our sortie from St. Lo, beneath a bright blue sky and a meridian sun, was extremely cheerful and gratifying.

A hard road (but bold and broad, as usual) soon convinced me of the uncomfortableness of the conveyance; which, though roomy, and of rather respectable appearance, wanted springs:  but the increasing beauty of the country, kept my attention perfectly occupied, till the beautiful cathedral, of COUTANCES caught my notice, on an elevated ground, to the left.  The situation is truly striking, gaze from what quarter you will.  From that of St. Lo, the immediate approach to the town is rendered very interesting from the broad route royale, lined with birch, hazel, and beech.  The delicacy, or perhaps the peculiarity of the western towers of the cathedral, struck me as singularly picturesque; while the whole landscape was warmed by the full effulgence of an unclouded sun, and animated by the increasing numbers and activity of the paysannes and bourgeoises mingling in their sabbath-walks.  Their bright dark blues and crimsons were put on upon the occasion; and nought but peace, tranquillity, and fruitfulness seemed to prevail on all sides.  It was a scene wherein you might have placed Arcadian shepherds—­worthy of being copied-by the pencil of Claude.