but the terms “joli,” “gentil,”
and “propre,” are made use of, like charity,
to “cover a multitude of sins” ... or
aberrations from true taste. I scarcely stopped
a minute in this chapel, but proceeded to a side one,
to the right, which yet affords proof of its pristine
splendour. It is covered with gold and colours.
Two or three supplicants were kneeling before the
crucifix, and appeared to be so absorbed in their
devotions as to be insensible of every surrounding
object. To them, the particular saint (I have
forgotten the name) to whom the little chapel was
dedicated, seemed to be dearer and more interesting
than the general voice of “praise and thanksgiving”
with which the choir of the cathedral resounded.
Before we quit the place you must know that fourscore
candidates were ordained: that there are sixty
clergy attached to the cathedral;[138] and that upwards
of four hundred thousand souls are under the spiritual
cognizance of the BISHOP OF BAYEUX. The treasures
of the Cathedral were once excessive,[139] and the
episcopal stipend proportionably large: but,
of late years, things are sadly changed. The
Calvinists, in the sixteenth century, began the work
of havoc and destruction; and the Revolutionists in
the eighteenth, as usual, put the finish to these
devastations. At present, from a very respectable
source of information, I learn that the revenues of
the Bishop scarcely exceed 700_l_. per annum of our
own money. I cannot take leave of the cathedral
without commending, in strong terms of admiration,
the lofty flying buttresses of the exterior of the
nave. The perpendicular portions are crowned
with a sculptured whole length figure, from which the
semi-arch takes its spring; and are in much more elegant
taste than any other part of the building.
Hard by the cathedral stood formerly a magnificent
EPISCOPAL PALACE. Upon this palace the old writers
dearly loved to expatiate. There is now however
nothing but a good large comfortable family mansion;
sufficient for the purposes of such hospitality and
entertainment as the episcopal revenues will afford.
I have not only seen, but visited, this episcopal residence.
In other words, my friend Pierre-Aime Lair having promised
to take his last adieu of me at Bayeux, as he had
business with the Bishop, I met him agreeably to appointment
at the palace; but his host, with a strong corps of
visitors, having just sate down to dinner—it
was only one o’clock—I bade him adieu,
with the hope of seeing the Bishop on the morrow—to
whom he had indeed mentioned my name. Our farewell
was undoubtedly warm and sincere. He had volunteered
a thousand acts of kindness towards me without any
possible motive of self interest; and as he lifted
up his right hand, exclaiming “adieu, pour toujours!”
I will not dissemble that I was sensibly affected
by the touching manner in which it was uttered ...
and PIERRE AIME LAIR shall always claim from me the
warmest wishes for his prosperity and happiness.[140]