a plentiful quantity of waving white hair adds much to the expression of his countenance.[123] He enquired kindly after our mutual friend Mr. Douce; of whose talents and character he spoke in a manner which did equal honour to both.  But he was inexorable, as to—­not dining with me; observing that his Order was forbidden to dine in taverns.  He gave me a list of places which I ought to visit in my further progress through Normandy, and took leave of me more abruptly than I could have wished.  He rarely visits Caen, although a great portion of his library is kept there:  his abode being chiefly in the country, at the residence of a nobleman to whose son he was tutor.  It is delightful to see a man, of his venerable aspect and widely extended reputation, enjoying, in the evening of life, (after braving such a tempest, in the noon-day of it, as that of the Revolution) the calm, unimpaired possession of his faculties, and the respect of the virtuous and the wise.

The study of Natural History obtains pretty generally at Caen; indeed they have an Academy in which this branch of learning is expressly taught—­and of which MONSIEUR LAMOUROUX[124] is at once the chief ornament and instructor.  This gentleman (to whom our friend Mr. Dawson Turner furnished me with a letter of introduction) has the most unaffected manners, and a countenance particularly open and winning.  He is “a very dragon” in his pursuit.  On my second call, I found him busied in unpacking some baskets of seaweed, yet reeking with the briny moisture; and which he handled and separated and classed with equal eagerness and facility.  The library of M. Lamouroux is quite a workman-like library:  filled with sensible, solid, and instructive books—­and if he had only accepted a repeated and strongly-pressed invitation to dine with me at Lagouelle’s, to meet his learned brother PIERRE-AIME LAIR, nothing would have been wanting to the completion of his character!

You have just heard the name of Pierre-Aime Lair.  Prepare to receive a sketch of the character to which that name appertains.  This gentleman is not only the life and soul of the society—­but of the very town—­in which he moves.  I walked with him, arm in arm, more than once, through very many streets, passages, and courts, which were distinguished for any relic of architectural antiquity.  He was recognised and saluted by nearly one person out of three, in our progress.  “Je vous salue”—­“vous voila avec Monsieur l’Anglois”—­“bon jour,”—­“comment ca va-t-il:”—­The activity of Pierre-Aime Lair is only equalled by his goodness of heart and friendliness of disposition.  He is all kindness.  Call when you will, and ask for what you please, the object solicited is sure to be granted.  He never seems to rise (and he is a very early riser) with spleen, ill-humour, or untoward propensities.  With him, the sun seems always to shine, and the lark to tune her carol.  And this cheerfulness of feeling is carried by him into every abode however gloomy, and every society however dull.