In our other journey Ocotopec made no impression on us.  It is really one of the most picturesque and interesting of the Mixe towns.  It is built upon a slope, which is cut and built into a series of little terraced gardens; clusters or groups of houses stand on the terraces.  The houses are rectangular, built of adobe brick and heavy thatch, with a thick comb of thatch riding the ridge.  Unlike most Mixe churches, the church at Ocotopec is entire, and in good condition.  It is built of stone.  The town is purely Indian, and the type is the best we had seen.  Had there been light for photographing, we should have stopped there and done our work, instead of passing on to Ixcuintepec.  As it was, we spent the night, and were well treated.  Leaving early in the morning, we hurried to Quezaltepec for dinner, the road being better than we had anticipated.  The town is prettily distributed upon a curved crest; the houses are neat, built of adobe or of poles daubed with mud.  Much fruit is grown here, and coffee is an important crop.  In almost every yard mats were spread out, on which coffee was drying, or being sorted by people squatting on the ground.  Considerable cotton is woven at this point.

Leaving at 3:40, the evening ride through the forest was magnificent.  The flora was such as we have before described.  As we rode through the higher forests, we constantly heard birds, notable among which were the clarins, with their fine clear notes.  It was dark before we reached Camotlan.  Nowhere had we been better treated.  We were shown at once into a clean room, and were soon surrounded by bustle and preparation for our comfort.  There are but 143 inhabitants, of whom six—­four men and two women—­have goitres.  We had been previously informed that the whole town was goitrous.  There were three deaf-mutes, but no idiots, in the town.  Inquiring for books printed in the Mixe tongue, we were informed that the choir-master had one.  On expressing my desire to see it, they sent to bring him.  We were astonished at his appearance.  The messengers who brought him carried him in their arms, and set him down upon the floor, when we saw that he had been born without legs, and with sadly deformed arms and hands.  Yet, when once placed upon the floor, he moved about easily, and had a cheery face and sunny temper.  He was delighted to show us his book and took the greatest pride in reading from it.  It is truly remarkable that he can do this.  The book was written in the dialect of Juquila of more than 170 years ago.  The dialect of Juquila was no doubt then different from that of Camotlan, and during the 170 years there have been great changes, even in that town itself.  As I watched the man read from his book, I noticed that he pronounced parts of words differently from the way in which they were spelled; how he had worked out for himself, unaided, the proper meaning and purport of the words was a mystery.  I had intended to purchase the book, but found him so attached to it that I gave up the plan.  Had he been a normal man, I should have insisted; but then, if he had been a normal man, he would not have had the book nor known how to read it.