into his stable without his permission.  I went to the good man’s house and found him hearing confessions.  Leaving with him the letters from the archbishop and the jefe, I returned to my work, leaving word that the horses would have to stay where they were, as there was no other suitable place for their keeping.  After a hard day’s work, the night started very cold, and we hurried to bed early.  All were sleeping, but myself, when a rap came at the door.  It was a message from the cura, begging us to come to the curato, where we would be more comfortable.  Sending back a word of thanks, I stated that we would be there for the following night.

[Illustration:  MIXTEC HOUSES; TILANTONGO]

The cura had been away from home for several days.  The result was that, on his return, his parishioners turned out in force to greet him, and hardly was he housed, when a procession bearing gifts marched to the curato.  In front went one bearing flowers.  Those who followed carried some kind of food,—­great pieces of meat, fowls, eggs, corn, chilis, and other supplies.  The following morning we were awakened by a great explosion of fire-crackers and rockets, and by pealing bells, announcing the early mass.  After his religious duties were performed, the padre came down to the plaza to watch our work and use his influence in our behalf.  When it was dinner-time, he invited us to go with him to that meal.  We had thought that the donation party we had witnessed was a generous one; after that dinner, we had no doubt of the matter.  Hardly had we disposed of the many good things on the table when the padre took us to a large room, the parish schoolhouse, and showed us the arrangements he had made for our comfort.  Four beds, descending in grade of comfort from the one for myself to the one for Manuel, were shown us.  Never was a party happier to move from one set of quarters to another.

Called away the next morning by his religious duties, the priest left us in charge of house and household.  The work went merrily on in the plaza.  We quickly found, however, that the town was getting into a condition of intoxication, and long before noon every person in the place was drunk.  At noon we were waited upon by a committee, representing the town, who informed us that they appreciated the lofty honor which was conferred on the place by our presence, and stated that, realizing that we had brought with us letters from the President of the Republic and from the Archbishop of the diocese, they desired not to be lacking in the respect due to such distinguished visitors.  Accordingly, they said, they had arranged for the brass band to discourse sweet music for us, while we ate our dinner.  No sooner was the statement made, than preparations were begun.  The band stood around us in a semi-circle, chiefly notable for its unsteadiness on its legs, and regaled us with a series of most doleful pieces.  When word came that dinner was ready at the curato, the band accompanied us to our stopping-place.  The bandmaster announced his intention of personally serving us at the table.  At the same time orders were given that the musicians, standing without, should continue to play pieces throughout the repast.