ground.  We noticed that all the women brought burdens, which proved to be pots full of hot atole, bundles of large tortillas, trays heaped high with tamales, or sacks full of little cups.  Various bands of dancers made their way around, delighting the crowd with their performances.  The group we had already seen was the least interesting.  Those that really represented los viejos (the old men) were the best.  These wore large, comic, wooden masks, many of which showed signs of long-continued use; one represented a long, warty, bearded face and was painted purple; others were painted red or brown, but most of them were of the natural color of the wood; great wigs of corn-husk or of matting were worn over the back of the head; the clothing was ragged and dirty, and in some cases was really of ancient style; some wore roughly made garments of the skin of the tigre.  Each band had its leader, and each tried to outdo the others in the oddity of performance, vigor of dancing and coarseness of jest.  Much fun and laughter were caused by their antics.  Meantime, boys and young women were busied as waiters.  Cups of steaming atole, delicious tortillas, hot tamales were distributed until everyone, including the strangers, were supplied.  No one ate until the whole company had been served, when the town officials set the example and all fell to feasting.  Dancing, music, laughter and fun followed, and were kept up until some time after nightfall.

On the second day after Christmas a strolling band of pastores, from San Geronimo, passed from house to house singing their Christmas songs.  The company consisted of two or three musicians, a carrier—­who was an indian boy about fifteen years old—­and half a dozen other youngsters, wearing new palm hats and carrying long staves ending above in a loop from which streamed strips of brilliantly colored tissue paper.  The carrier bore a cushion, upon which was stretched a figure of the infant Christ.  At each house, he passed before the spectators, allowing them to kiss the figure and to deposit gifts of flowers or of money for the little church at San Geronimo; the music then struck up, the leader began to sing, and the little shepherds (pastores) marched around and around singing in chorus.

We lost quite two days on account of the drunkenness of the town.  When it was past, by a vigorous indulgence in wheedling and threatening, we got the work again under way, and were just finishing with our one-hundredth man, when Padre Ponce returned for good and all.  We had nearly starved during his absence; his old housekeeper had done her best with the poor materials which we were able to secure, but the best was bad.  With Padre Ponce came another priest, Padre Torres of Patzcuaro, who used to be located at Santa Fe and was much loved by the natives.  With the assistance of the two Padres we were able to secure and deal with our female subjects in less than a day, and were ready to bid adieu to the padrecitos and leave for Tzintzuntzan.