The doors of the hospitable home at El Triunfo are ever open, and a day rarely passes without some traveller seeking shelter and entertainment.  Spaniards, Mexicans, Germans, Englishmen, Americans, all are welcome, and during the few days of our stay, the house was never free of other visitors.  Among these was Stanton Morrison, famous in Yale’s football team in ’92; he now lives in this district, and has a coffee finca four hours’ ride away.

Finally, at 10:10 Tuesday morning, April 2d, having completed all our work, we started from El Triunfo for our last ride of the season.  We could easily have gone, starting in the early morning, to El Salto before night; as it was, Don Enrique planned a different method.  We had good animals, which he had loaned us, or for which he had arranged for us with the muleteers.  At two o’clock we reached La Trinidad, where he had promised that we should eat the finest meal in the State of Chiapas.  We found a complete surprise.  Trinidad is little more than a finca, or rancho, but it has an agente, and quite a population of Chol indians.  The agente was a decent-looking fellow, active and ambitious; he talks a little English, and is something of an amateur photographer.  His house of poles and mud presented no notable external features, but within, it was supplied with furniture so varied and abundant as is rare in any part of Mexico.  Chairs, rockers, tables, cupboards, washstands, all were there; and beds, real beds, which for cleanness were marvels.  As soon as we entered the house, fresh water and clean towels were brought.  On the tables were vases of fresh-gathered flowers, in quantities, and beautifully arranged.  The visible service for all this elegance, and for the meals, were two little indian girls not more than six or eight years old, neatly dressed, and an indian boy of the same size and cleanness.  The invisible helpers were buxom indian girls, well-dressed and clean, but who never came into the room where we were, leaving all carrying, setting of tables, and serving, in the hands of these three little servants.  There was, indeed, one other person in the household—­a beautiful girl, slender and refined, whose relation to the master I do not know, but who was treated by him as if she were a veritable queen, or some lovely flower in the wilderness.  Here we rested, ate and slept in comfort, and here, when morning came, we paid a bill which ordinarily would have seemed large; however, if one finds beautiful flowers in the wilderness, he must expect to pay.  It was worth while paying to enjoy the best sleep, in the best bed, that one had had for months.

[Illustration:  A CHOL FAMILY; LA TRINIDAD]

[Illustration:  CHOLS; LA TRINIDAD]